On the "Coin Chat" forum there exists a thread for showing your numismatic library acquisitions. The latest item in my library is the Zack, Scuderi & Sherill "Bust Dime Variety Identification Guide" (BDVIG), published in 2015. This small monograph focuses on providing a "quick finder" approach to identifying die marriages in the early Federal dimes from 1792 to 1837. It does an excellent job in that arena but because it is limited in its focus, there are items of possible interest that are not addressed. So, I'll be looking for a publication that offers a deeper dive. But in the meantime, here's something I noticed while attributing my very small collection of early dimes. In 1801, there were only two die marriages, the JR-1 (R-4) and JR-2 (R-4+), both of which used the same obverse die. The BDVIG only notes enough information of difference between the die marriages to determine which variety is in hand. In my case, while re-photographing this 1801 dime this afternoon, I noticed that the R of Liberty had been re-punched, shown in the closeup below. This is probably old hat to the hands at the John Reich Society and other more experienced collectors, but it has sent me on another bibliophilitic mission to acquire something with more depth. Suggestions are welcome.
here is one: Early United States Dimes 1796-1837 Logan McCloskey Davis Subjack JRCS not cheap. https://www.ebay.com/i/223635838630...MImazIx4-v6AIVRj0MCh3xVgm2EAYYASABEgKjsfD_BwE
As what Treashunt said, Early United States Dimes is the definitive reference for the series. I have a copy of it, and it does mention the recut R. It says “on the Variety 1 obverse, a trace of recutting of the R is evident even on fairly worn specimens. This recutting was eliminated by the die lapping done before the Variety 2 strikes were produced.” Though the book is expensive, I do recommend it as it’s extremely informative. It is very similar in style to the Federal Half Dimes book (the coauthors of the FHD book were also coauthors of the EUSD book), if you’re familiar with that reference.
The 'Guide' only mentions that there is a "spine from the 'E' in LIBERTY to the tip of the curl. This spine was polished away between the striking of JR-1 and JR-2 marriages". No mention is made of the recut 'R'. You may want to contact Winston Zack, one of the authors to consult his opinion about this. Winston is very forthcoming and helpful. As @NSP mentions, JR-2 does not show the recutting on the 'R' reflecting that the die was lapped between JR-1 and JR-2 to eliminate the recutting. My example of JR-2:
I've got the Logan/McCloskey Half Dime book. I'll likely try for the Dime book. Somewhere along the line I got interested in die varieties and die marriages. And oddly enough just before the Dime discussion I decided to look into Capped Bust Dimes. I've got the Zack book. QUESTION: When you buy these coins, do you: -- buy them slabbed with authentication? -- buy them only slabbed and do your own authenticating? -- buy them raw and have them slabbed and authenticated? -- buy them raw and do your own authenticating? -- some combination of the above? I personally like my coins slabbed with authentication. BUT The expense is not trivial. Slabbing/Re-slabbing and Variety Plus can easily be almost $50. Then you have to add S&H. And if you want to do a crossover you can easily lose half a grade or more.
-- buy them slabbed with authentication? -- buy them raw and have them slabbed and authenticated? Keep in mind that the TPGs--none of them--are very good at identifying die marriages. They do seem to have gotten better the last couple of years, but ALWAYS id them yourself.
My copy. Not cheap but well worth it when you need it let me know if anyone needs me to look up or help attribute something I’m happy to help
I've never had to argue with a TPG about their attribution. Mostly I've dealt with NGC. I want to have my Classic Head Half Cents attributed. I can skip the dates where there is only one variety. But that still leaves me with about 12 PCGS coins and 3 NGC coins. I called PCGS about doing a crossover on the NGC coins. Their comment was that since their grading standards are tougher, the crossovers may come back at a lesser grade. So now I have to step back and reconsider whether to do ANYTHING. At the coins' value level it'll cost about $47 each for the PCGS coins. And with S&H that will work out to be about $600. If I do my own attributing all it will cost me is time -- and maybe frustration and bad words.
What a great response! It's a real testament to the superb collaboration that occurs amongst us. I purchased the half dime LM book a couple of weeks back and just now purchased the LM dime book off eBay. Found it for $75 so I call that a good buy, particularly since the half dime book cost me $195. Thanks again.
Eduard, that's a nice-looking JR-2. Is that die rust pitting showing on the reverse between the olive branch and ER and between the letters RICA and also in the eagle's tail feathers? The information I have says the dies were heavily rust pitted.
Do people find the pictures at NGC VarietyPlus or the Byron Reed Capped Bust Dime collection valuable? The biggest things I see that are missing here is text descriptions of each die marriage and identification of the individual dies as they are cataloged in the LM books. As I don't currently have these books, those pictures would be my resource if someone were ever to send me these coins through my attribution service. I could probably come up with a reasonable description from the pictures and coin in hand.
I have almost certainly performed the quote function incorrectly as I'm probably the only person on CT that doesn't know how to do it. Anyway, to respond to @kanga, I almost always buy coins of this price range slabbed. I don't have any interest in die marriage attribution by the TPG for three reasons: 1) I don't particularly trust their attribution and it would be a pain if they had the wrong attribution permanently printed on the slab. 2) I want to do it myself as part of my education and fun. 3) If I don't do it myself, what excuse would I have to buy expensive and hard-to-find books? Regarding attributing your classic head half cents: The latest book is Bill Eckburg's published last year. I bought it new last year when it came out and you should be able to find a copy although you might have to search for it. The author might have a new copy or two hanging around that he'd be willing to part with. It should give you everything you need.
I didn't know about those sites and I just took a quick look at them. As you say, they don't provide any written context or description which, along with photos, provide the complete understanding. But of use and value? I'd say yes and I have short-cutted them onto my desktop for future reference.
I keep these links and others on my website. They're mostly for me, but I hope that anyone else who stumbles across the list find the links useful.
Publius, I think you are correct, the surface disturbances seen on this enlarged/lightened picture of the JR-2 around 'ERICA' certainly look like the die was rusted or pitted. I am not seeing any by the tail feathers, however.
Since the Zack book came out it took a lot of pressure off the early dime book and has allowed the cost to come down. Before Zack's book was published the Early Dime book was going in the $400 range.
Those look like depressions in the coin. Die rust would cause raised areas on the coin. Rust on the die spalls away leaving pits in the die and raised areas on the coin.
