Coins Of Palestine

Got these two Palestinian coins yesterday from a bag of Israeli coins sent by my Israeli friend.



I would like to know their worth since they are pretty old and I have no idea of their valuation. Also wanna ask whether I should clean them with acetone because both the coins has some green stuff in them.
Thanks

 

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I can tell you they arent worth much...the 2 mil might be worth roughly 5 USD (XF)? The 1 mil will probably be worth a bit less in (XF...not saying yours are XF). Once I get home I can look the book price up for them in regard to different grades if you like....

As for cleaning...I would say almost any time you see green develop on a modern coin it is best to nip it in the bud...

I have both of these coins...bought them together on ebay in probably XF condition for 6 USD....that was probably around 05. So I quote 05 book prices in XF off my head...those would be, 5 for the 2 mil...3 for the 1 mil in XF.

To me the worth of the coin is far less important than the coin itself...I love the cheaps and the most expensive coins...to me its always worth savng a coin that might have problems, cheap or not...and these coins have a cool history and the worth will probably always rise.

 

Well I won't say I cherry picked my friend but these two coins are worth 7 used Indian stamps to me. That's what I traded them with. It was a mutual agreement coz he feels about stamps the way I feel about my coins.
The 1 mil is dated 1927. I got another one dated 1943 in much better condition. I want to trade off any one of the 1 mil coins. So I'm confused which one to give away. Any Suggestions??

 

1 mils were minted from 27 to 47 I think. So you have one from the first year of minting and one close to the last year...I dont know what kind of price difference there are for differnt dates off hand...or if there is a real premium for a poor 27 over a fine 43. I will look it up when I get home in a few hours and let you know what Krause says (if no one else answers you before I get there) but I have a feeling it might be a case of the price difference compared to condition evens them out and you might want to just keep the one that is simply the best example of the coin.

 

After searching the internet, I found out some interesting facts about these 1 mil coins,
first they were minted from 27 to 47 as you mentioned but irregularly (gaps range from 0 to 7 years).
second 1927 is the most common date and 1940 is the key date of this series.
and third and most important info is that both my 2 coins are unique in metal composition; 1927 one being the standard bronze alloy issue and the 1943 is a wartime bronze alloy issue.
(Guess I saved lots of your time)
All this time I was thinking about my friend's stupidity because he knew I am a type set collector and he send me doubles; stupid me. Now I think I'll keep both. I'm still interested to know their worth, Drusus. Thanks.

 

btw which year you got?

 

okay, you are right, if you had a 1940 the prices would be

F - 6.50 VF - 12.50 XF - 50.00 Unc - 150.00

As it is the book says the 1943 is slightly more valuable than the 1927

1927 mintage is 10,000,000 F - .50 VF - 2.00 XF - 3.00 UNC - 20.00
1943 mintage is 2,800,000 F - .75 VF - 2.00 XF - 5.00 UNC 35.00

Both mine are from 1941.

Interesting note to these coins....Almost all of the 1947 issues for the 1 mil, 2 mil, and 5 mil were melted down. Only 5 are known to survive for the 1 mil, ALL the 2 mils were melted, and only 2 5 mils for this year are known to exist...

 

Kid , nice coins , try soaking in olive oil , it's slightly acidic and shouldn't hurt your coins .
rzage

 

Thanks Drusus...
Thanks Rzage....

 

is this the thread you want me to look at? I would suggest for future trades you ask your friend for non problem coins. its like you giving your friend stamps with crease or missing perfs also KM values for low end tend to be rather high just my 2 cents

 

Yup this is the thread....
Does that green stuff make these coins problem ones?

 

absolutely you might clean them off but y get them get coins that are not affected like this would you get a stamp that was missing perfs?

 

values in the end are relative as usual...whats high to one person is low to another. KM prices are a suggestion at best.

To be honest the coins are not that bad off, they are actually in pretty nice shape with very little wear, remove the green and you have pretty nice coins. The 2 mil just has a bit of green and little real wear. The worst one is the 27 1 mil and you said you had another 1 mil that was in much better shape.

In the end the price for these coins, IMO, will only go up and up.

 

KM VALUES TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION THE TIME AND LABOR INVOLVED IN PACKAGING AND IDENTIFYING THE COIN. I FIND THAT I CAN DO ABOUT 20 COINS AN HOUR SO THIS MUST BE FACTORED INTO THE COST OF THE COIN. WHEN i SET UP AT A SHOW, MY DAUGHTER PUTS OUT A BUCKET OF LOOSE COINS PRICED AT 25 CENTS EACH, 6 FOR A $1 AND 30 FOR $5

Paul Garner
The Old Sarge

 

you also have to realize those are US prices by a US company for coins sold in the US. The prices vary greatly for common coins from country to county as demand, supply, and value of money is quite different from what is thrown out at the exchange rate markets.

 

I get your point. I only asked my friend to send me coins above VG grade; the rest of the coins in the bag are in pretty good shape barring these two. Like Drusus mentioned these two coins are in nice condition too except for the foreign particles (green stuff) on its surface. Which leads to my next question. Can dirty coins like the 1 mil one with very little wear can be considered at par with non dirty coins of same wear condition with respect to grades since a school of numismatist are against any alteration of the natural state of the coin? and also is there any technical term for the green stuffs usually found on old coins?

 

ask yur friends to send you coins XF minimum. i dont believe a non expert should be cleaning the coins period. there is a difference between conservation and cleaning and i am against cleaning but not conservation. all other things being equal a cleaned coin can neve rbe on par with a coin that has never been cleaned. the technical term is verdigris

 

Well, in a perfect world we would never have to clean a coin, in the real world, coins corrode and need to be preserved...most old circulation coins have probably been at least lightly cleaned with a soak of distilled water at least. A big part of this hobby. I have found, is cleaning and its best to learn how to conserve / clean a coin oneself properly and not rely on others to do so (especially with low value coins)...why pay someone else to clean a dirty or corroded coin when you can easily learn to clean yourself..

If a coin is found (in a bag, in the ground whatever) and needs no cleaning...perfect. But that is very often not the case. A cleaned coin can, without any doubt, be not only on par with a non-cleaned but in some cases it can be so much nicer than one that is corroded, filthy with little eye appeal and left that way.... In a case like these coins, it is advisable to clean them to halt obvious corrosion forming that will only continue to grow and damage the coin further.

Here is a very good write up on on bronze disease and some good advice...

http://www.crescentcitycoinclub.org/seminars_and_programs/Bronze%20Disease.pdf

Biox is good for removing verdigris without harming patina and it is cheap and one bottle can be used for many many coins, if I knew what was in it I would make it myself and not buy it but as it is... I bought a bottle and it work real well.

http://www.dirtyoldcoins.com/shop/supplies/index.html

http://www.conservationresources.com/Main/section_31/section31_03.htm

 

well preserved coins do not corrode. I am also not going to encourage a new comer to read a few paragraphs and start cleaning coins. learning how to clean like everything else takes practice and time.

 

thats a given about well preserved coins, now if only all coins were well preserved!!...about cleaning...no time like the present to start I say.

Kidromeo, this is not rocket science, if you need further assistance, feel free to ask. That is what a forum like this is all about, to learn about the hobby and to pass on info and help fellow collector learn. Its not very difficult...quite a few museums have put online lists of chemicals and methods they use to preserve metal and there is a wealth of info out there...you have a few perfect low value coins to start with...