Featured Charleston Coin Show report and CBH Newp GTG

The dot on the shield can be seen at the top left corner of the shield, just under the eagle's shoulder. It most likely was a centering dot - the engraver used the dot to help make sure all of the letters were punched at the right distance.

The recut star is easiest seen in this closeup. The star was originally punched, but the engraver didn't like the angle or the shape. So, he literally re-engraved the star. This shows as "doubling" on the star points. Look at the three lowest rays of the star in the closeup here:

 

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So is the Overton number on the label?

 

No. It costs a lot extra to get them to put it on the label, and they don't have the most accurate track record. The vast majority of Bust Halves don't have it on the label.

 

I guess I'm curious what kind of premium a R5 is worth on this kind of mid grade circ. CBH.
Not necessarily asking what you paid for it.

 

Overton attributions can be real bear, even when you a fairly high grade coin. When I was dealer, I had an 1827 Bust Half. After spending 15 minutes on it, I gave up. The graders don’t get anything close to that amount of time to assign a grade. The people who do the attributions probably don’t get much more. Therefore it’s not surprising that they make some mistakes.

The worst mistake I ever saw was on a Bust half in AG-3 that a grading called an R-7 variety. If that had been true, the piece would have been worth $1,500 or so. It turned out that the piece was really an R-1 variety that was worth not much more than one one hundredth of that.

 

In my opinion it seems that PCGS has a 5 point swing in grading CBH. As the majority thought @ldhair Half was 2 grades high. And yours being 2 grades low.
Does the term "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" really have that much of a swing? Cause, I am not seeing much if any of the technical grade, only a bad policy within the new market grading system.
As time goes on it seems that when a coin is original, it is a crap shoot on which way the grade will go.

 

It's tricky, and there is no hard and fast rule. Widely accepted, I think, R4 is where there starts to be a premium, but it's generally going to be a small premium. R5 is going to be a bigger premium. But it depends on grade, eye appeal, etc - you'll often find attractively toned R1s go for more than a droll R4.

NGC price guide for a VF-20 is $140. Recent sales for common varieties have traded recently on Heritage for $120-$150. Now, this is an attractive, completely original and eye appealing piece, which I already thought was undergraded. So, I put it at $200 without the variety.

The most recent PCGS VF-20 1822 O-103 sold a couple of years ago on Heritage for $240 - but mine is more attractive and should be a higher grade.

The dealer had it marked at $350, but I offered him $325 and he took it. Realistically, $275 - $300 is probably the right price, but I'm ok with it.

 

I'll do it for less and be accurate.

Is the stuff on the central hair goo that you think could/should be swabbed off with acetone?

 

Possibly? But I don't plan on cracking it.

 

Vf35