Those Darn Self Graders and their Flips... :-)

Many collectors, myself included simply keep their coins in 2x2 flips or in binders of some sort. We grade the majority of our coins ourselves if the need ever arises. A very self sufficient setup with no real requirement for outside intervention or vectoring except from whatever 'Grading Guide' you may use for reference, be that ANA, RedBook, Coins -- magazine, etc.

While I'm fully aware that my grades are probably not in line with what some of the TPGs would put on a slab, (up, down and sideways) one must also keep in mind that all TPGs grade differently, depending on what Grading Standard they are instructed to use.

My simple question is this. If you consider yourself a self-grader do you bother to mark the flip or whatever with the grade you think the coin is or do you simply identify the date, variety and any other unique attributes the coin has and move on to the next one...?

Take Care
Ben

 

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You should stamp the 2x2 with a "BNT" logo and a barcode. Be your own TPG.

I've marked the flips myself with an approximate grade for use when browsing. I've had to change the grade a time or two, but it's just for my own purposes. I agree with Arizona Jack's suggestion to put coins in a blank 2x2 when showing to sell to a dealer though, I think that's good advice. But for your own storage, might as well give it a grade - knowing that it's your own standard and just a reminder so you don't have to do the work over again.

 

The majority of my collection are MS that I have bought raw. I keep them in 2X2s and label only UNC, "UNLESS" it is a coin that was slabbed and I broke it out. I will write the grade that was given by TPG (PCGS or NCG) so that I will know it was a break out and it was given a grade by someone who "should" know what they're doing.

How ever since being exposed or better enlightened by this site of the differences in Technical and Market grading I understand I have a long way to go before I could give a coin a grade that I would stand by.

With the few circulated coins I have (SLQ, Barbers and such) I will mark the 2X2 at anytime because I find these coins should have a definetive grade because of wear factors or simple apperance.

Allen

 

I keep the 2X2 with their notation and correct it as need be.

 

i make things with logisitical info, no grade.

 

DITTO! Especially if one is suspecting to upgrade the coin. This definitely helps when browsing online. However, knowing one's own grading standard helps a lot. One man's MS-66 is another man's AU-58!

I do however cover the flip in writing, with as much info as possible, including any form of grading comments to help me "remember" problems with the coin when discussing it with others, non-face-to-face.

DITTO! Even if I'm going to photograph the coin in a flip, I will put it in a clean flip. However, with most of my photographs, I will put it in a white slab foam instead to enhance the lighting (not photo-doctoring "enhancement").

I personally do not want any form of grade indicator on any holder with the coin in it if I'm intending to sell it. We must always remember, there are a number of grading "standards" out there, and not everybody will utilize the same "standard", even within an organization that requires a certain defined standard to be used.

The longer you are involved with self-grading, the more refined your grading will become. There are many who will disagree with me, but you do not get "better" at grading coins as time goes on. You simply refine your own standard of grading. What gets "better" is your knowledge of a particular series and/or coins in general. This knowledge you obtain throughout the years is used to refine your understanding of the condition and (yes I'm going to actually say this) the marketability of your coins.

There is not a single "standard" and there never will be unless it is instituted by law itself. This is because grading is not, and cannot, be completely objective. The word "standard" in and of itself mandates objectiveness. Yet, there is too much in grading that is subjective. And since we all have differing opinions on matters of "beauty" and "strength", grading will always be subjective.

Now that I got completely off subject, I'm gonna shut my mouth now.

Just understand that you make your own standard and it will differ, sometimes slightly, sometimes greatly, from others'. When selling your coins to a dealer, at a show, private party, etc. it is always best not to have a grade showing on your flip because you do not yet necessarily understand the grading standard of the person you are going to deal with. By haggling not only price, but grade, you get to understand the personal standard of your potential buyer, and can at times come to a compromise between your opinions as you educate each other in your world-views.

Exactly!

 

I always self-grade morgan and peace dollars, including the identification of those I consider cleaned in the past.

I never self-grade anything else.

Currently, three cleaned[dipped] morgans are in my newly acquired cigar box to see how they will retone.

 

Sounds like an interesting project. I can't wait to see some results.

Ben

 

You were my inspiration to create a "coin hospital."

 

What kind of box are you using? Your results may vary if you've selected a "White Owl" or "Tiparillo" box vs "King Edward" LOL...

 

How long does this take? My father has a couple of real nice morgan that even a couple of dealers thought were not cleaned. Anyway, maybe a little toning would help? Just curious - I remember you mentioning the silverware in regards to the CBH's, but alas I will keep them the way they are(well in airtites anyway).

Bought a couple of 1836's CBH's today, maybe I will post pictures later tonight. As it is I want to get my new buff pictures up first for opinions.

 

Why not a put the general info on the 2x2 and then the 2x2 inside a flip with an insert with more confidential stuff on it (including personal grading info, price paid, etc.)? That way you can separate the coin from the "eyes only" info as necessary.

 

I dont put a grade on my coins, if I were to sell them, I would let people judge for themselves but price them at the rough grade I think they are. Nothing complicated, just the good old standard grading system with no numbers.

Living in houston, I have watched as my sivler coins tone all on their own from the heat and humidity.

 

Mark, it didn't take some of my halves very long at all, a year or so. I also had some loose (uncleaned) ancients and wheatbacks in the box as well. They were down in the basement near a (very used) wood-burning stove too...

Take Care
Ben

 

Afraid I don't have hardly any raw coins anymore, other than some junk silver and a few interesting circulation finds.

 

I have my high grade collection in 2.5" flips in airtites, with the purchase date and price paid, thats about it. I have a large box and several bags of wheats with who knows whats in there, I like suprises.

As for the new project of mine, I have had to, but admit a bit uncomfortably, grade specifically all my " inventory".

 

I'm going a bit more exotic. I have two boxes. Victor Sinclair Robusto and a Vigilante Toro Grande. I put one XF dipped morgan in each. The third coin is a pretty highly polished AU morgan that needs special attention, so I put it inside a Fire Chief Safety Kitchen Matches box to get a little extra reaction going.

How long do you figure this takes?

 

I would say a year or more at a minimum. Then again, you may like the looks of them after 6-9 months too...

Please post some pictures when the results are in.
Ben

 

Ok. We'll see how they look around Halloween.

I suppose this isn't a well-respected aspect of the hobby, but it's fun.

 

I have a about 60% of my coins that are NOT slabbed, however on both the staple 2x2s and the Eagle 2x2 plastic holders I record everything, denomination, type, base metal, (color for copper), date and grade. On the 2x2 staple cardboard/mylar I write it on neatly printed with permenant ink, on the Eagle holders I run clear labels through a laser printer and trim to size and apply.