They also buy back counterfeits in their genuine holders; have a great guarantee of authenticity and quickly update those on-line certs as well.
For reasons outside of their own control, the authentic slab's owner is still out time and money unless NGC also pays for shipping (doubtful).
Well if you have an Eye to discern what is real and what is fake this should never be a problem. What can become difficult is coins that do not show MS characteristics. iE, VF and below. Thus leads to the Date and MM. When buying coins that take a large jump between close grades make sure you have done your homework. Especially in MS.
Don't think so; I have been told they will pay shipping etc. on ones I have discussed. Not sure about time...
This is why I do not post photos of my coins along with their cert numbers. Best practices - just cover that number with a post-it!
That sticker is on all of a group of fake slabs that showed up recently. It was a matter of time that it would happen, and I was waiting for them to show up. The sticker makes clear what happened, and it shows that the slabber was incredibly arrogant and stupid. This new batch shows just how CRUCIALLY IMPERATIVE it is for EVERYONE to learn how to grade. It also shows just how important it is that the TPGs take pictures of EVERY coin they certify.
Thank you @JCro57 for sharing this. I do ok with grading and I always check the certification numbers, however I can't tell it's a fake NGC holder, what am I missing? I agree with you on the grade and I would have passed on a purchase without ever considering the slab was a fake.
I saw this, too. Looks like a different coin, to me. At first, I was thinking someone cracked open a real NGC holder and swapped out the coins. Seems NGC is saying the holder could be fake. Looks like someone copied the real one and is now selling the copies.
I doubt many people really 'know' how to grade properly today. I doubt even the so called experts at the grading companies do, which is why three different experts will look at a coin before the grade is finalized. Remember, in our day, before there were such things as slabs, there were only 12 grades, instead of 70: Poor, About Good, Good, Very Good, Fine, Very Fine, Extra Fine, About Uncirculated, Uncirculated, Brilliant Uncirculated, Gem Brilliant Uncirculated, and Proof. Grading was a lot easier back then.
And I see I'm not the only one who was led (by the Red Book's presentation format, as well as other sources) to think of "Proof" as a "grade", and a higher grade than "BU".
I have always thought of proof as a separate grade, but not necessarily higher than BU; just separate.
I think of it as a separate variety. I've gotten a proof-only coin slabbed as PR Genuine, Holed XF Details; I've seen photos of coins graded PR04 (proof worn down to Good), and possibly lower. I got into a short argument here last year with someone who insisted that a proof coin with wear "wasn't proof any more". He had other misguided ideas as well. Once a proof, always a proof.
Yeah, Proof was misleading, but it was implied this meant an average proof struck coin, not impaired. Btw, any comments about grading have nothing to do with WHO can grade, how old they are, when they learned, etc. Tons of young people are fantastic graders of ancient coins today. One expert on ancients I consult is under the age of 30. This is probably because ancient collectors grade themselves, and have to learn how to early on in collecting the coins. My point about US coins is too many collectors don't have to learn, thinking they can just blindly trust what the plastic says. Not as many people on a coin board are like that, but tens of thousands semi casual collectors. However, when they get scammed by overgraded coins, the entire hobby loses.