I have a bunch of wheat pennies I want valued please & thank you.

OP, your wheat pennies are worth very little. Just keep them and enjoy, you don't have anything rare/worth $$$$. If anything take them to your local coin shop and see what they offer you.

 

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Honestly I don't care what the OP wants here.

He's going to read or answer and realize that what he has isn't very valuable and go away.
Or he's going to be sure they will all scamming him and go away mad.

I'm interested in an accurate answer for the next person who comes and asks the same question...

 

It looks like you have the internet. You can find everything you need by searching.

 

Why would the OP search for anything when he can just have someone else do it for him. That’s the way a lot of people think these days especially young people. It’s called entitlement and so many people think they are owed to fast and free information not to mention being paid for little to no effort. So like I did in post #19 we just give it to them and hope they are happy with the results. Most times here they are not. Especially the new members that only care about how much it’s worth.

Reed

 

The OP (and other OP's) should explain that and they're exact intentions. We're here trying to read peoples minds, translate what they are trying to say and give opinions they don't want. I don't think he said he wasn't interested in coins.

 

For wheat pennies (Wheaties) a first guideline would be to look at the lines on the wheat stalks on the back and see if they look strong and separate.

 

I don't know if you remember, but I do. We had to get on the city bus and go downtown to the Public Library to do our searches. The internet and on-line buying has given us a sense of entitlement and instant gratification.

 

Mint state is when a coin looks brand new, no matter what year it is.
And hasn't been cleaned or polished, which damages the surface of the coin.
Look up grades, and grading. The Sheldon Scale.

 

Thank you all for the answers, and no I did not inherit the pennies, I collected them over a period of around a year or so from my tips I got from my previous job. I again thank you all for the helpful answers!

 

Oh I remember, I was lucky and the library was only a short bike ride away (twenty minutes). Fortunately I was into Lincoln cents and the information was limited but available. Also the local coin shop, which was twenty minutes the opposite way, was run by a older gentleman that liked to pass on information to us pesky kids. He also sold many Lincoln cents as singles from a nickel to a quarter piece depending on rarity. This was in the seventies and I still remember ogling the really rare cents wishing I could have them. Yes back in the day it took some doing to get information and when you spent the effort to get it it meant something. Today information is virtually throw away, no need to work for it.

Reed

 

Scale Summary
Perfect Uncirculated (MS-70) is in perfect new condition, showing no trace of wear. The finest quality possible, the coin has no evidence of scratches, handling or contact with other coins. Very few regular issue coins are ever found in this condition.

Choice Uncirculated (MS-65) is above average, may be brilliant or lightly toned, with very few contact marks on the surface or rim. MS-67 through MS-62 indicates slightly higher or lower grades of preservation.

Uncirculated (MS-60) has no trace of wear but may show a number of contact marks and surface may be spotted or lack some luster.

Choice About Uncirculated (AU-55) shows the barest evidence of light wear on only the highest points of the design. Most of the mint luster remains.

About Uncirculated (AU-50) has traces of light wear on many of the high points. At least half of the mint luster is still present.

Choice Extremely Fine (EF-45) shows light overall wear on highest points. All design details are very sharp. Some of the mint luster is evident.

Extremely Fine (EF-40) is lightly worn throughout the design, but all features are sharp and well defined. Traces of luster may show.

Choice Very Fine (VF-30) has light even wear on the surface and highest parts of the design. All lettering and major features are sharp.

Very Fine (VF-20) shows a moderate amount of wear on the high points of the coin’s design. All major details are clear.

Fine (F-12) shows moderate to considerable even wear throughout. Entire design is bold with an overall pleasing appearance.

Very Good (VG-8) is well-worn with main features clear and bold although rather flat.

Good (G-4) is heavily worn with the design visible but faint in areas. Many details are flat. Common coins in “Good” condition are not particularly desirable pieces for collectors. Rare or valuable coins in this condition, however, are often saved when no others are available.

About Good (AG-3) is very heavily worn with portions of lettering date and legends worn smooth. The date may be barely readable.

 

If they were found in tips it's safe to say they will be circulated. 3-6 cents each, maybe up to 9 cents for the steel cents if they are better condition and not rusty but haven't been recoated with zinc.

Maybe $1 or $2 total for everything. They are pennies and pretty common dates. A 50 coin roll usually goes for $1.50 to maybe up to $3.00. A coin shop won't pay you that though they need to make money off it also if they buy it from you. Best bet to make the most is to sell on the Internet on ebay or even Craigslist or something for a couple bucks.

I sort mine by decade and build rolls that way where they are sorted. 09-teens, 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s. The earlier dates are better and a dealer or buyer will pay better if they've been sorted and know the whole roll will be 20s or younger let's say vs a bunch of 1950s and they don't have to sort out the really common 1950s dates. If they have to guess they will lowball and consider the whole roll being 1950s dated cents.