These aren't in the album. Both raw. A '62 Type B and a very clean '69 w/ textile pattern and nice strike for the year/mint.
As I suspected the 5 oz finally fell of the board.Well I looked in my supply cabinet and I found these special thumb tacks. The reason I purchased these is I was looking for someting to add to a order to get free shipping. My first try I didn't like so much so this is what I did, I took my needle nose pliers and opened the loop This is what I settled for, up on the wall the hook are hard to see.
So I find this interesting... as I see pretty much all the state quarters in change at work. (I guess I rather take that for granted, how many of the common coins I see on a daily basis.) I just received a pretty nice Puerto Rico "D" yesterday. Which state quarters might you consider not as easily found these days?
If you can find mint state business strike(not Satin Finish) 2005-2009 state quarters those would be the ones to save. 2005-2009 had Satin Finish coins in the mint sets. People can hardly give away high grade Satin Finish coins. The regular business strike coins you find in circulation may be sort of rare in high grades.
Here is my first attempt at putting a picture of a 40-S and am hoping to get some tips on how to do better. The camera is a Kodak EasyShare C-180. The coin is original from someone who saved a bunch of UNC quarters during the war.
When I first shot this and posted, I thought that it might be AU because of the flatness on George's jowl and the rim of the drum. But now I think maybe it is a weak strike. Regardless, beautiful toning, especially for a clad, from one of those after market coin lens cardboard insert.
Found this possible gasoline soaked 1976 D quarter. Does this "staining" look similar to toning. Can the graders tell the difference between staining and toning? I saved this unique coin from circulation.How do I tell the difference between tone, patina, oil stain?
Rinse it in distilled water, then a brief soak in acetone. Rinse once more in distilled water. Either air dry or lightly pat dry. What is left will be toning. Patina is also toning. Value really depends on state of preservation with a possible bump due to the toning (if eye appealing. If it is MS with very few marks or nicks, then it will be worth a little more. A red book will give you relative values of the date and mint mark, but are usually retail and not necessarily what a dealer will buy it for.