1814 & 1827 50c attribution help

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by ctrl, Apr 12, 2008.

  1. ctrl

    ctrl Member

    Hi, I have very little knowledge, nor a proper book, to do attributions, what do the more knowledgeable around here think of these two halves? They are still in the plastic of the 2x2s and that gets in the way of the scans a little.

    Thanks!
     

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  3. CappedBustDimes

    CappedBustDimes Senior Member

    I am sure the Digger will attribute these for you shortly. That 1814 displays some magnificent clashing. Thanks for sharing this nice pair of busts.
     
  4. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    1814 is a O-105 R2 - I can see the clash on the ear, very cool coin. Too many 1827's to go through, but let me see if I can find something.
     
  5. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Okay - I am thinking the 1827 is a O-118 or O-119, but you will have to wait for a real expert.
     
  6. 900fine

    900fine doggone it people like me

    I agree, Mark. I think the 1814 is clearly O-105.

    Due to weakly struck / worn denticles on right obverse and all reverse, positive attribution is a little more difficult since we can't use S8, S13, A1, A2, or A3.

    But you're right... the three clash marks below the ear are still very clear. Dead giveaway. Yes, it is a cool coin.
     
  7. 900fine

    900fine doggone it people like me

    Again, I agree... the 1827 is a lot tougher and will have to wait for a real expert !*

    My best shot is O-107. I think O-119 is out - A-A is too close on the coin in question, while O-119 has 1/2 mm gap.

    Two things I saw on the coin here - A3 seems to be recut on its right leg, and seems to have a good solid die break connecting to rim. I didn't see an Overton which matched.

    As with the 1814, it's tough with this one due to lack of denticle diagnostics for S8, S13, A1, A2, and A3.

    Obverse stars look like a worn die, with points drawn to rim. Looking forward to other input.







    * not gonna name any names here, BEN
     
  8. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    I ruled out the o-107 because the second T in states looks level with other letters. Also the date seems to be lower. Also on the reverse it says devices are well struck - on this coin the reverse looks like a weak strike towards the bottom.

    Now I think O-118a is because star 2 points to what looks like the lower half of a segment, date looks 1 mm from drapery. On the o-118a I see flat stars, little to no milling and the bottom of the 8 is broken and joined to the edge. On the reverse I see ED and ERI both nearly touch and the A-A looks correct. So my final answer O-118A R3. Just remember it still does not make me right.
     
  9. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Of course I may have forgot to mention they are nice coins and it looks like scans versus pictures. To me scans really hurt the quality of a coin. I especially like that 1812.
     
  10. Bonedigger

    Bonedigger New Member

    The 1814 is an O-105 and the 1827 appears to be an O-118A. The plastic (2x2 flip) appears to be causing some distortion on the surface of the coin.

    Nice Coins Though
    Ben
     
  11. ctrl

    ctrl Member

    Wow, that's great. Thanks everyone! Should I take them out of the 2x2s for a better scan?
     
  12. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Nah - I do not think it is necessary. Scans just leave the coins looking washed out, at least to me so I do not think new scans will help a whole lot. Still nice coins.
     
  13. Bonedigger

    Bonedigger New Member

    I agree, those are some nice coins. No need to take them out of the flips. :)

    Take Care
    Ben
     
  14. 900fine

    900fine doggone it people like me

    Sure, I can buy into O-118a for the 1827.

    What did y'all think about the comment regarding recut A3 right leg, or the A3 die break to rim ?
     
  15. Bonedigger

    Bonedigger New Member

    Possibly an early die state before the die cracks on A3, as far as A2 goes, just don't know. I can say this with certainty though. Digital photos/scans can makes things appear/disappear without much trouble. Check out this thread where I thought I had a New Variety but when the coin arrived, it turned out to be something else...
    http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?t=34284
     
  16. ctrl

    ctrl Member

    Does the attribution increase the value on these (for the right person, of course)? I know very little, like I said, about capped bust attributions.
     
  17. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Personally I do not think so for R1's to R3/R4's. Now R4's/R5's and on will probably have some premium, but I am not sure how much or what effect. That is just my personal opinion. The reason I put a range is it seems like some of the R4's can be found more easily than others - which makes me think they might need to be changed. Just my own opinion.
     
  18. ctrl

    ctrl Member

    Thanks all, very much, for the information on these coins (and sorry for the poor scan on the 1827, maybe I'll try to get a better one later).

    What would you say these grade at and the corresponding value? My guesses would be: 1814 (F-12, $60); 1827 (XF-45, $85 - it's actually quite nice in-hand). Am I anywhere near close? I'm really liking these capped bust halves, so much variety.
     
  19. ctrl

    ctrl Member

    What do you guys think, should I submit these two for grading and variety attribution?
     
  20. Bonedigger

    Bonedigger New Member

    I wouldn't bother getting a TP(O)pinion and they've already been ID'd by attribution.

    Take Care
    Ben
     
  21. ctrl

    ctrl Member

    And I thank you very much for that. Sorry I wasn't clearer, I meant if I was to sell these, would it be better for the final price to get them graded and officially attributed?
     
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