How to pursue obtaining a "top pop" coin?

I'd obviously *love* to own one of my favorite designs (IHC, Buffalo nickel, Walking Liberty half) and know that no one else has a higher graded coin.

But since I'm not made of money (wouldn't that be cool...!), I have to probably be content with getting a Lincoln cent. Maybe a Wheat.

How much money are we talking here? A few hundred or a few thousand? I know it depends, but I have no concept of the scale here and want to know if this is obtainable or a pipe dream.

Thoughts?

 

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This is why I mostly do world coins now. I realized that on my budget I could either assemble some pretty good US sets, or some truly world class Hungarian sets.

 

Go to the PCGS population report and look for those coins of a certain type with pop 1, none higher. Then go to the PCGS price guide and look at the prices shown as a ballpark guide. Then go back to the pop report and look for coins with pops of less than 10 and none higher and look at those prices. Then look for coins with very low pops and 1 higher and look at those prices. This exercise will not only tell you what to expect to pay for a pop top, but give insight into your downside if the top changes.

 

Yeah, I'll take @messydesk 's suggestion and do some homework, but I also like your suggestion @ToughCOINS ... It'd be nice to have "the best" coin, but I could live with "no one ELSE has a better coin" (and be tied with them)

 

The cheapest US option would be a modern MS/PR 70 (could be multiple different series). It would be tied with many others and not very exciting.

With Wheat cents or Memorial cents, the top pop BN and RB designations can be had for significantly less than the top pop RD and quite a few come with attractive toning.

You can also consider branching out to US medals or tokens. There are some great designs that are affordable. These might be at risk for being unseated though as some uncertified examples may still be out there in high grades (especially for the more common ones).

Finally, as mentioned earlier, world coins present a good opportunity. Top pops will be cheaper than US equivalents and can offer something new compared to the coins you are used to seeing. Again though you might be at risk for having a top pop unseated as the world coin market hasn’t seen as much slabbing and better coins can still be tucked away in raw form.

 

A very true point. Having a top pop world coin that is an MS64 is likely just due to lack of submissions, but when you get a feel for a series you can tell when a coin really is likely to be a true top pop contender.

As an example, I've got an MS67 1915 Hungarian korona (top pop for the denomination 1/0). I would be shocked to see a better graded example, as even 66s are extremely scarce. Price-wise it cost me just over $250, and the equivalent US coin would be an MS67 1915 Barber quarter which is an over $10k coin. I get just as much enjoyment out of my example.

 

All great points.

I’ll add that it can be hard to get a feel for some series as there are so few graded examples (and at times little info overall).

Your Hungarian Korona is also a great example of why picking world top pops is a safer bet. Even if a 68 appears of your coin, the hit (if any) when the time comes to resell will be relatively small compared to a top pop US coin in a similar grade that gets unseated.

 

The secret is to find a coin that absolutely no one collects. Grade it. Boom. Top pop. I have a few because of that

 

You can make payments on a coin. Many will laugh at that, but how many of us have done it ? Me. My king of my collection is not "Top Pop", but I will settle for a high grade rarity versus "Top Pop" grade crazy high thousands+ money...

My 1832 Belgian 10 centimes NGC MS-65 RB... cost me $750 I made 2 payments.





I have never regretted it either. I love this coin.

 

The answer to your question is easy:

Have enough money and hope no one ever gets lucky enough to get a higher grade.

 

But as pointed out above you can find something no one cares about either and not break the bank.

 

You still have to have enough money for it, regardless of how cheap it is. I didn’t say you had to have egregious amounts of money. I apologize that my meaning was not clear.

 

Best bets is get a top pop of coins that aren’t heavily collected like v nickels or 2 or 3 cents. Or more modern coins too

 

Personally I am not on the top pop band wagon.....sure if you happen to find a coin and it grades to that spot..... but as C-B-D stated there's always that chance to be knocked off the king of the hill position.
That case you have paid for something that isn't a guarantee and money spent is now money lost.
I pay more attention to the condition of said coin, eye appeal, and just the fact "YOU" are happy with your choice....the opions of others are just that .....an opion.
Maybe it's me but personally I don't give a rats butt for the most part as I am not going through life to please others.....just myself....and if it happens to please another well that a good thing I guess.
And first and formost a man got to know his limitations...." TY Clint! " But it is true I'm sure alot of us have champagne taste and a beer pocketbook!
That said focus on what pleases you within your limitations and stop worrying about keeping up with the Jones!

 

I have a modern, common date Jefferson Nickel that is NGC graded PR-70 DCAM. That’s the best you can do theoretically, and I paid $30 for it.

I also have an 1800 Bust Dollar, Bolender die variety 20, that is tied for the finest known. It’s now graded NGC AU-58. In the “old days” (1970s), it was an EF-45. That’s how grading can work. That one would not come cheap however, or at least I hope it doesn’t.

Seriously buying the “finest known” of anything is like a dog chasing its tail. There are more highly graded coins coming on the market, especially in the modern series where rolls of coins were put away. Part of the reason is that collectors and dealers are finding them. Another part of the reason, according to some, is that lower standards are making for crack-outs and more highly graded pieces.

If you do go this route, I would avoid a copper or bronze coin. The best is Red for the color, and that can turn color on you. That’s why I tend to avoid Red copper. Copper-Nickel, silver and gold are more stable.

 

I bought an MS70 West Point Commemorative Dollar from PCGS some time ago. It’s probably my only top pop coin and I never really cared to chase any top pop. To each their own though. MS70 commemorative coins are an easier route in my opinion.

 

I’m in the same boat. I don’t have a coin that I care about in my personal collection higher than ms 66. A Morgan 66*. I’m all about eye appeal and surfaces so I have a lot more beautiful 64s and 58s with great looks. I buy the coin and don’t care about the top pop unless I’m buying it to sell. Even then. I had a mercury in ogh ms 66 fb gold cac. Could it crack and go 68 maybe. Then it’s a top for the date or would it be a 67 or 67+? Which isn’t rare. Regardless I liked it as is in the holder and sold it that way for strong 67 money

 

My kind of collector!! That "ogh ms 66 fb gold cac" type coin can be difficult to locate as a "top population" coin, with believed greater potential for future sale. Try locating a similar 1945 micro-S in the same graded condition.

GOOD JOB!!

 

In the end you have to be happy with the coins you buy. As many have said before "buy what you like". If you buy what you think others might like then I do not think you will get as much enjoyment out of your coins. There is always gonna be someone out there with much deeper pockets $$$ than you and me. If you really like a coin save up for it and buy it. Only you can determine your demand for a coin.