How can I save these 2 beauties?

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by James D, May 1, 2019.

  1. James D

    James D New Member

    I have both a 1911 s and a 1917 s, which appear to be at least AU, if it weren't for the little bubbles of (rust, goop, grease, whatever, that coats these coins. With a lens, one can see there is no wear and tear and a minimum of a scratch or two.
    I could use some guidance

    Thank you
    Jim W 1917 s ob.jpg 1917 s ob.jpg 1917s rev.jpg 1911 S CLOSER LOOK.jpg 1911 S REVERSE GUNK.jpg
     
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  3. -jeffB

    -jeffB Greshams LEO Supporter

    I'm afraid that's corrosion, and the coins will never be the same -- if you remove the "goop", they'll be discolored and/or pitted underneath it.

    Having said that, you may be able to remove it. Soak the coins first in distilled water. If there's still gunk on them (and there probably will be), try soaking them in acetone or xylene (both available at a hardware store). If there's still gunk after that (a distinct possibility), there's a product called Verdi-Care (invented by @BadThad, a longtime user here) that's particularly good for removing verdigris or other corrosion products from copper.
     
    Inspector43 likes this.
  4. James D

    James D New Member

    Thank you... I will try it
     
  5. Collecting Nut

    Collecting Nut Borderline Hoarder

    No matter what you do they will be damaged from the corrosion. What a shame.
     
  6. James D

    James D New Member

    Thanks....I just wonder where these 2 coins sat for over 100 years, virtually untouched but unprotected.
     
  7. Penna_Boy

    Penna_Boy Just a nobody from the past

    PCGS and NGC bot have reputable conservation services. Let the pros do it.
     
  8. James D

    James D New Member

    As the new guy, where / how may I contact these agencies to assist in evaluating their condition?

    Thx
     
  9. Collecting Nut

    Collecting Nut Borderline Hoarder

    Take them to your local coin shop.
     
  10. desertgem

    desertgem Senior Errer Collecktor Supporter

    I have used both of Thad's reagents with success ( there are early threads on the this forum) and I do think the damage is too severe on both sides, but especially the reverse for good hopes of success , especially for semi-key coins. Once you find what the cost will be with any professional service, you will most likely decide against it. Thad's products will help, but there will be chemical limitations. The will be pitting and visible damage even if anything removes the corrosion. Get an estimate before committing. Jim
     
  11. James D

    James D New Member

    I certainly will...looking at these 2 coins is like looking at the Mona Lisa through a dirty glass pane
     
  12. BadThad

    BadThad Calibrated for Lincolns

    The corrosion on both is terminal, the 11S has already been cleaned....there is no hope of conservation for either coin.
     
  13. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    I'm afraid your definition of "beauties" varies considerably from my own. ;)
     
  14. Michael K

    Michael K Well-Known Member

    The 11-S is a semi key and might require professional conservation.
     
  15. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    It's true the 1911-S is a semi-key date and good to have, but I'm afraid I must agree with @BadThad- the damage on that (and the other as well) is terminal and irreversible. It could not be fixed even with professional conservation, and would not be worth the cost of that in any event.

    So it is what it is- a better-date coin with problems. Someone would likely still want it to fill that hole in their album.
     
    Paddy54 likes this.
  16. Pondering_Infinity

    Pondering_Infinity Active Member


    In my experience EDTA (available as a cosmetic additive on EBAY) is the best thing to remove corrosion on a coin.

    Its what the pros use.

    Gary
     
    James D likes this.
  17. desertgem

    desertgem Senior Errer Collecktor Supporter

    If you use it, I would recommend the tetrasodium rather than the disodium as the latter has an acidic pH and tends to leave more of a pinkish color to it that says " I have been cleaned". The tetrasodium EDTA is closer to neutral. The real pros usually don't say anything truthful about how they do it. IMO. Jim
     
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  18. Pondering_Infinity

    Pondering_Infinity Active Member

    @desertgem
    i dont know if that was to me or the OP, but to be clear I certainly would make no claim to be a Pro, that is for sure.
    Gary 1804_4M_BeforeAfter2.png
     
  19. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    That's a pretty impressive conservation.

    I flunked chemistry in high school, FWIW.
     
  20. Conder101

    Conder101 Numismatist

    Depends on which image is the before and which is after.
     
  21. RonSanderson

    RonSanderson Supporter! Supporter

    The top left image is the after of the bottom right, and the bottom left is after the top right was cleaned. It’s a magical solution to be sure.
     
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