This one looks promising...idk much at all about what to look for in the quarters but this one jumped out and slapped me right in the face. Doubling in both dates and alot going on on the reverse as well. From what I understand,this is a Philadelphia,which is one of the more scarce ones to find?
Do you think it's Mechanical Doubling, or Doubled Die ? They over used the dies back then to make a ton of quarters. Have you compared it to the graded DD notching examples ? Why are Philadelphia quarters more scarce to find? They made 809 million of them.
If I knew I wouldnt be here asking for help with it. The date does not have the flat shelf look to me and it clearly has something going on with it. I apologize for not studying every detail and example before posting,I'll go somewhere elce and get an opinion.
Just trying to make you think more. Most ppl come here and just want an answer and don't ever want to bother to learn anything. it's Mechanical Doubling, or actually I think a mix with Die Deterioration Doubling.
@Clawcoins is not trying to belittle you. He is just trying to make you think about what you see and how it may have occurred. Like he said, too many people come here for answers, but they "close the book" once they've gotten their answer, and so, have learned nothing. Like Fred said, the dies have been "used and abused"! Chris
Yea,I apologize Claw,I'm honestly trying my best to learn how to spot certain things. Seeing something like this under the scope looks quite substantial to an untrained eye like mine. Im not sure what to do besides ask for a more experienced opinion,I would hate to toss a DD back in the ole change jar.
@FoundinTN My guess is you may already know this, but it may help others. When you think you found a Doubled Die 1. Confirm to the best of your ability that it isn't MD or DDD 2. Check sites like Variety Vista to find an EXACT match. 3. Still not sure, post a question. Include the details, i.e. "Is this 19xx DDO-003?" or "Is the doubling around LIBERTY, machine doubling or something else?" As you go through steps 1 and 2, you'll get a lot better at learning the difference. The more coins you look at, the better you'll get. You may also want to review the error-ref and Wexler's doubled Die sites every once in a while, to keep from drifting away from true doubled dies vs worthless doubling. Hope this helps
Personally, for my searches, I have a list of error years/mm that I put aside for closer looks and a website open to confirm the moment I strike it rich (not). When pennies, I use lincolncentresource.com, when halves doubleddie.com, etc...
No problem. We're all trying to "teach" people what to look for. I thought I posted this earlier but I don't see it .... There are various types of Doubling, some which are the ones that are worth money, but many not worth anything. First of all there are 3 primary methods that doubling occurs (simplified, hopefully): (1) Machine made - When a part of the minting machine moves slightly. This can be the die, the stamping arm, etc . This is known as Mechanical Doubling, Ejection Doubling, Machine Doubling (2) Die Usage Wear made (which of course the machine is holding) - When the die itself starts wearing. aka Die Deterioration Doubling. These first two methods create the “illusion” of doubling. But this is not the doubling that people relate to worth money. (1) and (2) can be one, or the other, or both as they are separate problems from each other. (3) Man made Mistake (and lack of high quality control) - When in the process of creating the hubs and die itself, there is movement or rotation thus creating doubling on the die itself. Which is then "transferred" when the coin is minted/stamped. This is the reason one must understand the entire process as it becomes more obvious when one knows this information. So we have (1) Machine Made (2) Die Usage Wear Made (3) Man/Quality Made in Hub/Die making process Most collectors are after everything that is (3) Man Made, or made during the hub/die making process. The above 3 items totally exclude when the coin goes into circulation. Which then damage, etc can also make one think there's some form of DD. And then, with the "real doubling" there are 9 classes of it, in brief: Class 1, Rotated Class 2, Distorted Hub Doubling Class 3, Design Class 4, Offset Hub Doubling Class 5, Pivoted Class 6, Distended Class 7, Modified Class 8, Tilted Class 9, Single Squeeze But there is a lot to learn about real Doubled Die ... edit: I should add .. (1) & (2) are probably 99.5% or more of the time.
@FoundinTN ...the responses you have gotten emphasize how much there is know. With every coin there is a ton of info and data that could be applied, CT members are helping you to do that. And, kudos to you if you truly want to learn. Regarding your OP coin...as soon as I saw the obverse, I knew it had too much wear. But, the reverse has some better indicators fo wear: just above the D/DOLLAR, at the top rim of drum, are vertical bars topped with cylindrical caps. These are missing and indicate a AU53 level of wear, imo. Couple that with the obverse wear, the many contact marks on the reverse and the mintage and you begin to see that the coin is a spender. Last July I went through the 90+ Bicentennial quarters I had accumulated over the past 43 years or so and ended up returning 50% of them back to the wild because of excessive wear, so don't feel like the Lone Ranger if you kept something you probably shouldn't have. Lastly...study die deterioration...you are going to find deterioration much more frequently than you will doubling...I really hope this helps you...Spark
Thanks for the advice,I literally started 2 weeks ago and have looked thru more change than I want to mention. I'm sure 90% of what I've kept are spenders,but,I enjoy it and it gives me a thrill to see something like this altho it is nothing special. I respect everyones opinions and trust that they are correct. I hope I'm not bothering anyone with my inexperienced posts,this is the only site I feel that I get a brutally honest answer everytime,and that's what I need to help me progress. Much appreciated.
@FoundinTN ...Rest assured, anyone putting out bad info on this forum is going to get called out for it. Members pride themselves in accuracy of info and advocate learning of all things coins, currency, bullion and exonumia...Spark
