I have both a 1911 s and a 1917 s, which appear to be at least AU, if it weren't for the little bubbles of (rust, goop, grease, whatever, that coats these coins. With a lens, one can see there is no wear and tear and a minimum of a scratch or two. I could use some guidance Thank you Jim W
I'm afraid that's corrosion, and the coins will never be the same -- if you remove the "goop", they'll be discolored and/or pitted underneath it. Having said that, you may be able to remove it. Soak the coins first in distilled water. If there's still gunk on them (and there probably will be), try soaking them in acetone or xylene (both available at a hardware store). If there's still gunk after that (a distinct possibility), there's a product called Verdi-Care (invented by @BadThad, a longtime user here) that's particularly good for removing verdigris or other corrosion products from copper.
Thanks....I just wonder where these 2 coins sat for over 100 years, virtually untouched but unprotected.
As the new guy, where / how may I contact these agencies to assist in evaluating their condition? Thx
I have used both of Thad's reagents with success ( there are early threads on the this forum) and I do think the damage is too severe on both sides, but especially the reverse for good hopes of success , especially for semi-key coins. Once you find what the cost will be with any professional service, you will most likely decide against it. Thad's products will help, but there will be chemical limitations. The will be pitting and visible damage even if anything removes the corrosion. Get an estimate before committing. Jim
I certainly will...looking at these 2 coins is like looking at the Mona Lisa through a dirty glass pane
The corrosion on both is terminal, the 11S has already been cleaned....there is no hope of conservation for either coin.
It's true the 1911-S is a semi-key date and good to have, but I'm afraid I must agree with @BadThad- the damage on that (and the other as well) is terminal and irreversible. It could not be fixed even with professional conservation, and would not be worth the cost of that in any event. So it is what it is- a better-date coin with problems. Someone would likely still want it to fill that hole in their album.
In my experience EDTA (available as a cosmetic additive on EBAY) is the best thing to remove corrosion on a coin. Its what the pros use. Gary
If you use it, I would recommend the tetrasodium rather than the disodium as the latter has an acidic pH and tends to leave more of a pinkish color to it that says " I have been cleaned". The tetrasodium EDTA is closer to neutral. The real pros usually don't say anything truthful about how they do it. IMO. Jim
@desertgem i dont know if that was to me or the OP, but to be clear I certainly would make no claim to be a Pro, that is for sure. Gary
The top left image is the after of the bottom right, and the bottom left is after the top right was cleaned. It’s a magical solution to be sure.