Sorting my 70 year accumulation

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by Inspector43, Jan 6, 2019.

  1. lehmansterms

    lehmansterms Many view intelligence as a hideous deformity

    Digital microscopes are great for microscopy - for coins, not so much, unless you're specifically making images of details (closeup of a mint mark, for example) in extreme macro close-up.
    You need some sort of camera with a wider field of vision/focus than most digital microscopes provide.
    Unless you're taking images which are intended for publishing in glossy-format books, etc, you don't need a gazillion pixels to take really good, serviceable photos of coins which are 100% appropriate for internet sharing, websites, pasting into emails, etc.
    A significant number of the photos on my website/gallery were shot with a 0.6 megapixel camera. If you're filling your frame with the image and not taking a shot of a tiny item adrift in a sea of background (which is all excess pixels you will leave on the floor when you crop) a camera doesn't need to be 15+ megapixels to take good, sharp, detailed coin photos.
    I have to keep telling folks not to send me their raw 15mp shots as they display too big to view without re-sizing. Many cameras with higher pixel-counts allow you to take photos at a lower pixel-density so they don't produce raw images of such huge size.
     
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  3. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

    Thanks. My wife gave me the order to find something (camera, stand and software) that will work. I will keep in touch. If you have any suggestions please advise.

    Dave
     
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  4. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

  5. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

    I miss read your original reply and said that I had been using Dansco. In fact I was converting to Dansco. Sorry.
     
  6. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

    Searching a roll of 1963-P cents I found 4 with identical die cracks in the forehead. I attached a photo of one for an example. I also found 4 with identical die polish marks in the letter "GOD". I will put up a photo later. 1963 P Cracked Skull #1.jpg
     
  7. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

    In the same roll of 1963-P with the die cracks in the skull I found 4 with identical polish marks in the letter GOD. Attached is a sample. 1963 P Polish marks at GOD.jpg
     
  8. green18

    green18 Unknown member Sweet on Commemorative Coins

    Your 'white balance' is whacked.......
     
  9. green18

    green18 Unknown member Sweet on Commemorative Coins

    What type of lighting are you using to illuminate the coin?
     
  10. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

    I have a digital microscope with a built in light. It points straight down. I need a better set up but don't have the expertise to get it going.
     
  11. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

    @lehmansterms gave me some hints and suggestions also. I don't understand the process enough to make a set up. I now have a cell phone that will take photos, but, it is not good for close up or magnified shots of small detail. Frustrated and looking for a good set up. Any help is welcome. Thanks for the attention @green18
     
    green18 likes this.
  12. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

  13. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

  14. desertgem

    desertgem Senior Errer Collecktor Supporter

    If it is an USB scope with a circle of LEDs around the lens, cut a circular pattern of a sheet of white paper or thin white foam and make a doughnut shape which will attach to the scope with the lens in the center and the lights covered by the paper. you can use a very thin sheet to thich layer or multiples so you can adjust the light level hitting the coin. One person used the wax paper sheets ( mine is Kabinetwax ) that are about 10 x 10 for wrapping hotdogs, etc. in Deli.
    Diffusion of the light is the main objective.
    Jim
     
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  15. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

  16. Cheech9712

    Cheech9712 Every thing is a guess

    Hey their shinny. Us gals like shinny. You got it in spades
     
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  17. lehmansterms

    lehmansterms Many view intelligence as a hideous deformity

    It's important that you have some way to hold the camera/phone in as close to a fixed position as possible for getting high-quality, clear photos, also it's best if you can keep it in a fixed position in ref: the subject. That way, when you use both obverse and reverse shots (stitch them together, etc) the photos will be the same size, same light-angle, etc. There are a number of ways you can "secure" the camera - phones do well with the clips made to mount them on car dashboards. There are tiny tripods for phones. If you have nothing else, lay the phone flat on a shallow box with the camera part hanging over the edge and place the subject on the surface below. Lighting (as I believe I already mentioned) is very important - if the subject is not well lit, you can't really depend on a camera (or phone) to compensate.
    For getting closer-up with a phone, these sets of clip-on-phone, add-on lenses (wide-angle, closeup & fisheye) will work with just about any phone camera and are a terrific deal at the price (on sale for $6 the set).
    https://www.sciplus.com/smart-phone-lens-kit-58826-p
    [​IMG]
    The same mail-order house has a deal on a folding box/stage with lights and all ($17.50):
    https://www.sciplus.com/portable-illuminated-large-photo-studio-64741-p
    [​IMG]
    (full disclosure: I am not associated with this company in any way - but they have great stuff, often at amazing prices - I buy from them often and am very seldom displeased).
    It's pretty badly out of date ref: the technology of the cameras, but the basic photographic concepts (fixed camera, background, lighting, etc) are the same despite it having been 20 years since I wrote this old "digital photography 101" introductory piece for young students:
    http://ancientcoinsforeducation.org/content/view/54/30/
    Doug Smith has some fantastic informational web-pages about more high-tech coin photography. If you ever contemplate becoming serious about photography, you'll definitely want to study his articles:
    http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/ -
    http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coinphotobasic -
    http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/educational
     
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  18. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

  19. nuMRmatist

    nuMRmatist Well-Known Member

    Maybe forget taking pics to show off the [very nice] stuff. Maybe get busy on acreddited appraisals?
     
  20. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

    Like I said earlier, for 70 years I have only been interested in date, mint and eye appeal. Since joining this forum I have a new life in coin collecting. But, I am still learning some of the things that are a way of life for most of you. With that said, what are "accredited appraisals"? And, how do you go about pursuing them? Thanks in advance.
     
  21. Inspector43

    Inspector43 More than 75 Years Active Collecting Supporter

    @nuMRmatist This may be one of those accreditations you mentioned https://www.cointalk.com/threads/2011-ase-ddo.325484/ John Wexler confirmed the variety. Is that what you meant?
     
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