So when does scarcity overrule gradability

a side-note Heritage has told me they do not sell coins that value less than $100 or un-graded US Gold

 

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You have to request that ahead of time but yes you can get genuine slabs. But if they thought it was genuine they would have given it a details grade anyway.

I would have to disagree there for that time frame, similar I could agree with with but each date/mm should always have it's unique characteristics considered. Ultra moderns sure grade them all the same they've been standardized enough for the most part by now, but 100 years ago it hadn;t happened yet

 

No big auction house would sell that coin raw

 

this is the category it was placed in in 1988 https://www.pcgs.com/grades#grade86

 

If you are close enough to a major coin show take this coin to that show when it's in town. They usually have one of the grading services on site so you could talk with their representative about it.

 

Isn't it surprisingly refreshing? There hasn't been a certain someone come in to turn the course of this thread to an entire "TPG'S Suck!" discussion? Whew.

 

A matter of opinion, certainly. As I understand it, there are several members at this forum who offer their coins on eBay. I've been more than pleased with the ones I bought from @C-B-D over the past several months, just for starters. I don't deny that my experience with high priced coin buying is limited either, BTW; perhaps I'm not the expert you are, or at least claim to be.

 

The classification of low ball over graded junk is very inaccurate. Do you buy million dollar coins there no, are there a lot of good coins there yes. Is it primarily an auction venue anymore no. It is one of the better sources of world coins and moderns and is the biggest source of coins 500 and under. Would it be the first place to look for a five figure coin no it wouldn't, is it just garbage for the under educated no it isn't. It is the biggest online coin market in the world by volume last I know, so it's no where near as bad as some higher end collectors make it out to be and I don't even like most of the decisions eBay has made

 

Nice thread folks, thank you.

 

You are NOT going to be able to remove the solder with a soldering gun. I'm assuming it is a silver solder and not a lead/tin solder because theis was probably used on jewelry and lead/tin is too soft/weak for such.a use/

Gold melts at 1,935 degrees F, and silver at 1,735 Degrees.
Silver solder, depending on the type, melts between 1,200 and 1,400 degrees. Your typical soldering gun will get to 600 degrees. You will need a torch to melt that solder and you are not going to be able to remove it with desoldering braid or a solder vacuum because the temperatures would probably be high enough to destroy them. On the other hand being silver solder on a gold coin you CAN dissolve the solder with nitric or possibly sulfuric acid. The acid will dissolve the silver solder but will not affect the gold. There will most likely still be some damage present and the TPG's still will not straight grade it, but it may look better.

 

I'm not going to bother reading this entire thread. IMHO, the ONLY REASON a TPGS would not put this coin into a "detailed" holder is they are weaseling out.

That may be a good thing. Every so often a coin is so ruined that there is no original surface left. A decade ago, this coin would have been slabbed. The quality of fakes today and the tricks the counterfeiters use (damage, corrosion, etc.) to disguise their work have professional authenticators running scared.

You may send the coin to ICG for an opinion. Give me permission (in writing) to post images and write about your coin on this forum. No guarantee we will not weasel out too!

PS I've heard so many "family" stories over the decades that I could have written an entertaining book.

 

CoinBlazer said "Whether it is a 1945-D cent or an 1849 Double Eagle, they should all be held to the same standards." To which you replied "I agree completely, but that is NOT how the TPGs do things, and it never has been !"

Your I agree completely implies that you agree completely that a small cent should be graded the same as a double eagle or more specifically in this case a double eagle made almost a 100 years prior.

Or is there some secret language now that I am not aware of where saying "I agree completely" to what you just quoted doesn't mean that you agree completely?

I told you that is not how grading is done and that is not how it has been done since long before the TPGs ever even existed.

It's silly to think a small copper coin should be graded the same as a large gold coin.

 

THIS:

@GDJMSP wrote: "Are the coins graded differently using different criteria ? Yes, of course they are. BUT - if a small copper coin, or a large gold coin, or any other coins, have issues, then the coins should be graded the same, or not graded at all - in regard to those issues!"


This provable concept (Many coin's are graded differently) is a fact! If you cannot understand that and the reasons for it you are either a rookie collector, an old fart with your head in the sand and still clinging to "the way it should be."

I don't agree with this, but that's the way it has always been especially since 1986! BTW, it is one of the reasons GRADFLATION has taken place.

Additionally, there is not a coin ever made that cannot be graded in regard to those issues - "problems."

PS Looks like I'm going to need to take the time to read this thread after all.

 

Copper and gold are entirely different metals that react to different things differently. A hit should not be considered the same on both, neither should color be looked at the same and so on

 

Good post. An expert restorer could get the solder off and make the coin look considerably better. Not sure how you would find such a person. Some museums and archaeology departments of universities have such people, but if they would do it, it would be costly. Even after expert restoration, good chance the coin would details grade or worse as you say.

Cal