I'm starting at about 6 empty holes in my Buffalo Nickel book (13-s II, 14-d, 18/7-d, 21-s, 26-s, and 3 leg), and I'm getting pretty discouraged because of that 18/7-d. I'm not crazy about collecting tiny varieties, but also would like to have what it generally considered a complete set. So, my question is, who decides this? Why is the 18/7-d included in the book while other overdates are not? Same thing on Lincoln Cents...a guy can go broke trying to get all the official varieties. Aren't there some small/large dates in the Indian Heads that don't make it into most books Where does one draw the line, and why? Finally, does anyone know where I can get a buffalo book without the 18/7-d in it?
Guess that depends on when you think the set is complete, and not the book. I, for one, don't include overdates as a part of my sets. The only series I do collect them is with Bust Halfs. So, if you conclude the set is complete, who's to say otherwise? Guy~
i agree with eh others. it is done when 'YOU' determine it is done. Myself, i look at a series done when i have a sample of a coin from each mint in proof and/or unc depending on what is available, i do not include rpms, ddo's, die dents, die cracks or any of the other numerous varieties. If i do find/buy a variety, i do not include it in with the main series. I include it in my variety collection
Back before I gave up on US coins, I defined a set as "every coin I can afford" Essentially, everything with more than three digits for price in the Redbook was out.
It reminds me of one of those airline mechanic stories (I guess you guys know by now, everything reminds me of a story). The pilot filled out the maintenance request for the mechanic saying "Evidence of a fluid leak on left engine" and the mechanic returned the request with the notation "Evidence removed". Just get albums that don't include holes for the overdates or make up your own albums.
When is a set complete? I don't mean to be flippant, but NOBODY can answer that question for you, you must answer it yourself. Some choose to collect a few in a series, some leave out the keys, some consider a single coin a set. Where you fit on that continuum is up to you, really. That said, I never consider my collections complete until I sell or lose interest in them, then it doesn't matter. Said a bit differently, it is the journey, not the destination. Respectfully...Mike
I know what you mean as far as trying to complete the set. I collect Lincoln cents and am trying to complete the early set in VF-Au. I have the (1909svdb), (1909-s) and (1914-d) holes looking at me. The 1909-s I can afford, but too much money for the other 2 in the grade that I want them in. As far as I'm concerned, once I get the (1909-s) the set will be complete.
I have what I call a "complete" set of Kennedy halves that contains every business strike made for circulation (even if they didn't in fact circualte, like the 1970-D, 1987's, etc.) Some would insist to make it actually complete I should also get the varieties, silver clad bicentennials, proofs, silver proofs, matte finish, highly accented hair, etc... but I'm willing to call it complete for my purposes. It all depends on how strict you want to be with the definition... and that's totally up to you. If you want you can omit proofs, varieties, extreme rarities, etc. I usually collect by type, not series, anyway... Kennedy halves and Lincoln cents are the only exceptions for me (also have a handful of Mercury dimes inherited from my grandmother, but not actively collecting any more of them). Collect whatever you like and the only person's definition of "complete" that matters, is yours. It's your collection after all; you're done when you say you are.
I personally don't try to collect a set that I know I would never be able to complete because of extreme rarities or because I just can't afford it. That's why I chose Jefferson nickels not too long ago. They are very affordable and you can even collect all the die varieties,...because they are affordable. With the Jefferson's I know I can easily complete the set, in a high grade, and even collect all the proof coins without spending 1,000 bucks on a single coin. If I tried to complete a set that I couldn't get all the years or varieties for, that would just drive me crazy!!! That's just me though.
Thats the same reasoning that I use. I have never started a set of coins that I thought I could never complete. I have alot of different sets under constuction right now. Four sets are complete and a few more are near completion. As said earlier, your sets are complete when you decide they are complete, nobody else. I consider my Mercury Dime set to be complete without the two overdates in the album. My Lincoln Cent collection will be complete without the 1922 no D, the 1955 dd and the 1972 dd, to me, they are varieties. And my Peace Dollar collection will be complete without the proofs and the 1964 coin.lol
With Dansco albums (and possibly others) you can buy blank pages for any denomination and create your own setup. You'll have to label the pages or leave them unlabeled, but it will avoid the empty hole syndrome.
I just collect by date and mintmarks. I am still in my first year in collecting, and I have about 60 ahead of me so I am starting out "small"
I quite understand your desire to fill every hole, as well as your dislike for varieties being included arbitrarily. If it were me, I would fill the hole with a normal 1918, and, if I could sensibly do so, efface the overdate portion of the description.
The 1918/7 D is included becuase it has been accepted for so long. The 1914/3 is a new discovery and the 1914/3 D & S are still being debated as ligit overdates.
