Mercury Dime set question

I know it will be out of my price range to complete a full set. But, how about a date only set. Do you think this is doable buying only around spot + a small premium for certain dates?

Condition really doesn't matter as long as date is visible.

 

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Depends on grade. A set in F could be done for about 200 to 225 bucks although the 1921 will cost a large portion of that (over half).

 

A complete Philadelphia mint set is very doable - the 1921 will cost the most, but can be had for under $20 in decent condition - if you want the 42/41, that one will set you back the most $$ (350+)

 

That's what I was worried about.
http://www.numismaticnews.net/article/silver_dollar_rush_hurt_1921_dime_mintages
The story behind the 1921, as well as the 1921-D, is basically the simple fact that 1921 was not a normal year. The United States, thanks to the Pittman Act, had melted more than 270 million silver dollars back in 1918. The dollars were needed not for regular commerce but to back Silver Certificates. Without them, the government had to issue short term notes that paid 2 percent interest. That made replacing the dollars a high priority to avoid paying additional interest.

In the rush to produce silver dollars, the production of all other denominations suffered, especially in 1921 and 1922. The mintages of many denominations were much lower during those years than was normal and we see that in the fact that the Mercury dime was not even made at all three of the facilities in 1921.

 

With the exception of the 1916D, even a complete date and mintmark set is achievable for most collectors. You may have to save a little bit for the key dates, but if you are looking for G or VG coins they won't be too expensive. And, a set like this is built over time - you don't need to plop the entire cost down at once.

I would recommend that, for most of the set, you try to collect VF or EF coins. Those are the perfect balance of price and condition - most of them trade at a bit over spot, but they still have enough detail left to make an attractive presentation.

 

Thanks! I appreciate it.

I've never asked to look through the albums before at my coin shops, only ever the 90% bins. I have about the set now from buying for silver. I think I'll take a look at the albums and grab any of the teens or 20s Mercuries if the price is closish to melt. Maybe $3 or $4 per coin max.

 

The early dates are going to have more of a premium over spot. I would take a look at a good price guide to get an idea of how much, or which dates. I use the NGC guide, here: https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/united-states/dimes/31/

 

Am I not reading it correctly? https://www.pcgs.com/prices/priceguidedetail.aspx?c=703&title=mercury+dime&MS=2

Because when I look here it doesn't look like the teens or 20s dates are more than a few bucks each in circulated condition.

 

Yes, that is correct. What I'm saying is the early dates will usually have more of a premium than the 30s or 40s. The 30s and 40s will usually sell for a bit over spot, the early dates will sell for a couple bucks more.

 

Ok, gotcha! This seems perfectly doable at or near spot ($1.25-$4 each) for everything besides 1921 ($50-$100 in avg circulated). Any tips on obtaining a 1921 for a reasonable cost? Does the forum believe it would be a waste of money to buy one in poor condition and instead spend a little more for a better condition?

 

Merc sets are fun and quite attractive. Most dates can be had for a song. I will tell you being the kind of guy I am, an empty space in a coin book makes me crazy. I was a poor fellow most all my life and started my Merc set along about 1985. It took me twenty years to get the last two holes filled with the 16-D and 42/41. However most of the book was filled in fairly short order and quite affordably. It had to be with the meager wages I was living on back then. All I am saying is that while a complete collection is fulfilling, a long range goal is even that much more satisfying once you get there. Enjoy the journey!

 

When I collect my intent is to get coins in grades that will give a viewer the idea of what the Mint had in mind when they struck them.
Consider something like this:
-- one high grade (MS-65) coin, most likely from the 1940's.
-- complete the 1940's with XF/AU coins.
-- complete the 1930's with VF/XF coins.
-- complete the 1920's with F/VF coins (the 1921 coins and the 1926-S may have to be lower grades).
-- complete the 1910's with VF coins (the 1916-D may have to remain a hole).
Skip the overdate errors.

It will take you longer to complete your set but I bet you'll be much happier with the end results.

 

Me too, so I unless I can find a preprinted book that just has the dates instead of the mints, I may just use a binder and 2x2s.

I don't imagine ever paying more than $50 for a single coin, so that means going for a date only set.

 

For me, I drew a line with Mercs at V.F. Nice clean ( not cleaned ) coins and it was more eye appealing and uniform across the series. I am still missing the 16D. Over dates and other varieties are an add on and not necessary and most albums do not include a spot for them. This is something to consider for the future and adding an extra page to the album once the set is complete. For the expensive 16D you might consider an untouchable bank savings account dedicated to just saving up for this one coin. Better this than trying to save for it at home and dipping into it for something else. Just a thought.

 

There is always a short set of Mercury dimes 34 or 41 to 45.

 

Got one some time ago for around $150. No 16d though and around vg average grade.

 

I don’t see where everybody is saying 1916-D is a stopper. If you set aside $50 a month, you’ll have enough for an AG3 in a year. Sooner if you’re getting a Fair. The market is receding on this Coin. We aren’t talking about a 1901-S Barber Quarter here.

 

You may be correct. I haven't looked lately. Admittedly not much on AG though. Not a stopper. They're just more plentiful w/o the 16D

 

I have been studying this coin for a decade. What was once $1K in 4 around 8 years ago is now a $750-$800 Coin. 3’s and 2’s used to be $500 and $400, now can be had for $400 and $350 respectively. Even 12’s and 15’s have seen decline as well. I am now laughing at the folks telling me as a teen that “The 1916-D is going to constantly go up in value, it’s going to be so much more in 10 years!!” Total BS.

 

Well, that may or may not be true. There are only so many 16D's.