A couple months ago I built up my ASE 1986 to Current, and other than stacking ASEs just for the stack of it, I kinda stopped. Flirted with tokens for a bit and probably will still get a few from time to time but I only like the ones with ships on them, which is few. I've always enjoyed the Peace Dollars so, based on another thread that got me thinking, I thought I would build up a mostly or totally complete collection of Peace Dollars. I'm thinking AU or better, some slabbed. My current Peace collection contains: 1921 XF-ish 2x 1922s raw, cleaned 2x 1922 P raw 1923P PCGS - have to check grade 1923 PCGS MS63 1925 P PCGS - have to check grade 1926 P ANA MS63 that's about it. In looking at coinbook just for the date/mm varieties other than the oddball 1922 High/Medium reliefs there is also a 1934 D Doubled Die ?? ==> https://www.cointalk.com/threads/the-unique-1934d-doubled-die-peace-dollar-summery.242519/ Sounds interesting, and expensive. The other month I nearly bought a 1955 DD but just couldn't get myself to spend $1400 for a penny. yikes. And all the pre1800 stuff is massively expensive. The Peaces are much cheaper to collect .. I'll get back to the pre1800 stuff at some point. But it looks like the following will cost some to get in a good grade 1934 S 1928 P Anyone else have a good Peace collection? Anything hard to get out there or basically what I listed above 34S & 28P ? Thanks
The 34s is the killer for sure. And if they have a mint mark they tend to be more expensive. I started collecting them myself, but I soon realized it was out of my price range to amass the graded collection I want. So I will keep my raw, full set and am now in the process of selling the graded coins.
There's only a few I would buy graded. As a measuring stick for common years/mm, the APMEX/Provident AU/BU selection would be fine by me for most of them. I'm not a "buy everything in a slab" person.
I go thru spells of buying rolls of cull dollars. If you feel the need to plug holes with cull to average pieces let me know what dates you need. I'll plunder some of these rolls for you and be happy to send them at cull costs (maybe $17.00 thereabouts) if I have them.
There are a lot of peace dollars out there. If I was trying to put a full collection together. I would be looking for them with full strikes and earlier die states. Some of the later strikes in MS look blurry and it kinda detracts from there eye appeal.
This one got me started on a circulated set. Most of the set is self slabbed and the rarer ones are TPG graded.
Great topic! I have also been thinking about starting a collection of Peace Dollars in the AU range. I would want to buy mostly RAW to keep in an album and only buy slabbed of a few dates. My only concern is finding AU coins raw that haven't been cleaned. I feel like a lot of examples have been cleaned in some fashion and I might not be the best at spotting cleaning just yet so that has caused me some hesitation.
If one knows how to properly tell an Au58 from a MS coin, The dealer if he is honest will mark the raw coin down to the appropriate price, I never take the written grade on a flip as gospel.
It's been awhile since I've paid much attention to these issues, but I did back when I re-entered the hobby in 2000. Lacking a knowledge base, or a 'forum' presence I 'willy nillied' with a fellow from Richmond Virginia who advertised 'Premium Quality BU'. I paid way too much for the 'sliders' I received, but such is education and experience hard fought. I'm not sorry that I bought the coins, as the experience taught me a lesson. My advice to OP is to study grading techniques and most importantly, learn to grade yourself. Your discerning eye is the key factor in determining what is right for you. AU-BU (BO ). It really boils down to what it is you like to collect. I lack a '28 and a 34-s........
I completed my Peace collection about 2 1/2 years ago. Grades range from VF to MS63. The 22-S, 23-S, and 26-D I inherited from my dad which where my grandpa's so I don't plan to upgrade them even though they are VF. I have a 21 in VF35, 22, 22-D, 23, 24, 25, 26-S, 35 in MS63 and 28 in XF45 slabbed by PCGS. Would like to upgrade my 26, 34, and 34-D to MS.
So I'm looking at this 1928 P - plus others. What do you guys think of it, potential valuation? The Good, Bad and Ugly of what you see ? I see wear on Rev - PEACE, good detail on the Eagle (my main concern) Obv/Rev a lot of bag marks, maybe good luster, a bit of rim damage, OBV - a lot of hits on the hair but good hair detail. But overall a good specimen for a middle of the road collection dependent upon price.
I've been researching the Early and Later die strikes due to the "crispness" of the detail from yours and others posts recently. There's always more to learn; never ending. I may think I can discern AU from MS .... but then I check the photograde stuff, sometimes it's very confusing when they vary the grading standards between coins it seems. And Anacs vs PCGS vs NGC vs ICG. I missed the local coins show this weekend just due to laziness. i should really just "shop around" and hold off buying anything. Which is what I always do anyways. LOL
The strike is great what concerns me is the small hairlines that seem to show on the obverse, around the date and bust. Between the ding and those hairlines I would think that the TPG's would detail the coin AU details.
Yes, totally correct. I'm finding out my "desire" to have a nice luster and strike, is countered by my "not wanting to spend too much" which put me right in the "AU / Details - Cleaned" slabbed market; which seems to be many. There aren't very many unslabbed nice examples of 1928 Ps as I cursory search around. Max of about $250 budget is what I'm thinking. Am I willing to spend more. Umm .. no, not really. Or go to a XF ? No I really like the finer details aspect. I'm just learning more about the strikes etc. Trying to see if I can identify earlier strikes with crisper details versus later strikes. Even though ppl say "learn" .. that's a tantamount learning curve when it is not one's profession nor even a primary hobby.
Some of the pieces before 1926 have much lower relief on the lettering than 1926 and later when they were sharpened. So 1922-1925 all come with very weak lettering because that was how the hubs were made. Look at the hair on Liberty and the wing feathers on the eagle to determine a full strike. 1921 is a unique type. 1934 and '35 have a sharper "In God We Trust" that was re-engraved in the hub.
Do you have a good light magnification system? I'm no pro, but abrasions become very evident under bright light and high magnification. I don't have a scale yet, but that's another good tool. Coins separate themselves pretty well with the proper tools, especially cleanings.
I think you can stay within budget, patience is the thing. In completing my current set it seems that deals vary from day to day, but eventually you can find a dealer just wanting to move a decent coin for a very fair price. If you want all the slots filled on a timeline though, it can be challenging when you need a very specific coin.
I’ve got a pretty complete Peace dollar set (minus the infamous 34-S of course). I’ve found that I need to search a bit harder for eye-pleasing examples (grade aside). There are a lot of uncirculated coins that are just flat dab ugly. But it’s fun to hunt. Peace price guides and auction results have been going lower recently, so it may be a good time to start.
