I got this one ! At least I better have! Found doubling on the E in WE and T in TRUST ! Extra thickness on reverse as well. I've been trying to school myself on this doubling and hope I got it rite!
You're missing the fact it's not a doubles die. Seriously though, perhaps consider getting some playdough and pressing a cent into it. This in a roundabout way will give you the impression of what a die looks like. Then take the same cent and after slightly rotating it, again press it in. This isn't perfect but should help give a better impression on how to identify true doubling.
Wow. Thanks for the tip. True Doubled Dies on LMCs are very hard for me to see as well. I think I will have to try this.
Thank you for that ! If I'm correct that would cause doubling on the entire coin, taken the next strike was still centered and then rotated. Making most of the doubling on the outer image of a coin. Then if it's off center(N,E,S,W) the doubling would appear in such correction. But I have seen coins called DDO,DDR with one or two images doubled that are spaced apart from the next letter such as this! I must be missing something still !
The process described produces a Type I DD, both O and R, depending as if on obverse or reverse. There are 8 Types of DD produced by the multiple squeeze process. and then there is Type IX " God only Knows" for single squeeze or something else unexplainable.
You are. The die has the doubled image/devices. When they make the dies, that make coins, that is when the doubled die is made. The coin being struck twice is a different error.
Yes this (usually)happens when the working hub strikes the working die. Which is made from the master die and master hub correct.
Like Gemmy said this isn't perfect, but was only intended to hopefully give you a visual start. Sometimes it's best to take things in steps instead of trying to make sense of everything all at once. I agree they can be tough, and hopefully it will be of some help. Additionally, I found that it's much more difficult to identify those from around 1973/1974 to at least 1982 (LD) than it is those from 1959 to 1972. The more crisp design on the earlier dates makes all the difference, or at least did for me. Post 1982 (inc. SD) can be hit as miss imo. Some are and some aren't. Good luck!
Sometimes I feel like Sargent Schultz in repeatedly responding to threads like this … https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=sargent schultz I see nothing&view=detail&mid=536C15C4EAA9B07AACAA536C15C4EAA9B07AACAA&FORM=VIRE ahh .. that's didn't work as I thought.