Julia Domna's evolving coiffure

Julia Domna's hairstyle was rather consistent for the first dozen years or so of her reign, then began to change shortly before her husband's death. The large bun at the back of her head decreased in size and her coiffure developed a progressively more "helmet-like" appearance toward the end of her life.

Post anything you feel is relevant, as always!

Early style:

We know this coin is from the early part of her reign (AD 193-195) because it reads IVLIA DOMNA AVG:


Dupondius. Hill dates this to issue 6, AD 195.

Characteristics of this style include a very large, plaited bun that takes up the entirety of the back of the head and horizontally-arranged waves over the top and side of the head; the part of the coiffure with the horizontal waves becomes progressively narrower as it comes down over her ear to the nape of her neck. There is no braided border framing the sides and bottom of the hair. Typically, there is no ringlet of hair decorating her cheek, either.

You can see the criss-crossing plaits of the bun particularly well-rendered on this denarius:


Denarius. Note later IVLIA AVGVSTA inscription. Hill dates this to AD 207.

This reconstruction by the Theater Akademie August Everding is astonishingly realistic and demonstrates what the empress may have looked like during this time:



This video by forensic hairdresser Janet Stephens demonstrates how the empress's hairdresser may have accomplished this hairstyle:



Mint-specific variations on this style are seen on examples from Laodicea. Note the appearance of a separate ringlet of hair decorating her cheek. This became very standard on portraits from later in her reign (see below):



And Emesa:



Moreover, this hairstyle is widely used on provincial coins from the Balkans to Asia Minor:


Triassarion of Tomis in Moesia Inferior.


Assarion of Nicaea in Bithynia.


AE 32 of Ephesus in Ionia.

 

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Toward the end of Severus' reign and in the early part of Caracalla's stint on the throne, Julia Domna adopted a different style, perhaps necessitated by a form of hair loss (see video, below). The bun is reduced in size and she has begun to incorporate a braided border of hair to frame the sides and bottom of the coiffure, which foreshadows her later "helmet-style" hairdo. Typically, a ringlet of hair peeks out from the helmet to adorn her cheek:


Denarius under Septimius Severus.


Denarius under Caracalla. Note the new inscription, IVLIA PIA FELIX AVG, characteristic of the empress's coins issued by her son.

This is the style seen on this statue in the Capitoline museum. Note the ringlet decorating her cheek:



Forensic hairdresser Janet Stephens postulates this change in her hairstyle may have arisen out of necessity--portraits and statues of the empress suggest she had begun to suffer from a type of hair loss called distal-type androgenetic allopecia. This video shows how this coiffure may have been accomplished:



Finally, coins issued at the end of her life demonstrate her late-period hairdo. The bun has shrunk in size such that it is perhaps better described as a queue-knot. The braided border framing the the sides and bottom of the hair persists and the entire hairdo resembles a helmet. The ringlet decorating her cheek is maintained as well:


Antoninianus issued under Caracalla.


AE as under Caracalla.




Orichalcum sestertii under Caracalla.

This is the style seen on this statue in the Museo Ostia Antica, where she is depicted veiled. The braided border of hair at the sides and bottom of the hairdo is clearly rendered. Note the ringlet of hair adorning her cheeks:



The resemblance between Julia Domna's "helmet-style" coiffure and this doll found in a child's tomb near the Via Valeria in Tivoli is astonishing and demonstrates how popular the hairstyle became during Julia Domna's reign.

 

A great collection of Domnas @Roman Collector - most impressive.

 

Great coins and a very interesting look at imperial hairstyles. I enjoyed the videos by forensic hairdresser Janet Stephens, which I had never seen before.

 

Aren't those fascinating? And it's very interesting to think a medical condition may have been responsible for the change in the hairstyle we see on the coins of her later period!

 

Excellent writeup!

 

Fascinating subject, and it is really fantastic to see numismatic vs. statuary comparisons. There was I believe a two part article in The Celator on this very subject. One would have to search though:

https://community.vcoins.com/category/the-celator/

 

Great post @Roman Collector . A very interesting read.

 

That's really fascinating, @Roman Collector ! I always assumed that the royal women wore wigs.

 

..naa... that wuz just the dudes...^^..well, mostly anyway

 

i actually like the later hair styles more on the coins..altho i don't have any as of yet..

 

i looked for a pic of this one for D Rays thread and i just hadda go take another.. man, these coins on the table are getting a nice lookin' patina on them.. Julia Domna AR denarius

 

OK, I think this is a Julia Domna denarius... please correct me if wrong. I bought it for $25 in a box of unattributed denarai.



Julia Domna denarius
Laodicae mint
RIC 648
RSC 246
Sear 5 #6614

 

Thanks for the post, @Roman Collector! Here are two from my collection, one with an early hairstyle which resembles the reconstruction by the Theater Akademie August Everding, and one with her later "helmet" style.
Julia Domna. AR denarius, Emesa, ca. 193–6/7 CE; 18.5mm, 2.77g, 12h. BMCRE W422, Hill —, RIC S630 (S), RSC 188a (C 191 var). Obv: IVLIA DO–MNA AVG; draped bust r. Rx: VENER – VICT; Venus, draped, standing front, head l., holding apple (globe?) and scepter.

___________________________

Julia Domna. AR antoninianus, Rome, 211–7 CE; 4.75g. BMCRE C9, RIC C379a, RSC 106. Obv: IVLIA PIA – FELIX AVG; diademed and draped bust r. on crescent. Rx: LVNA LVCIFERA; Luna (Cohen gives Diana), with crescent on head and cloak floating round head, standing in biga l., horses prancing.

 

Great post and great coins, thanks!! I have one without the braided border, and one with. Would like a very early portrait, and also a late "helmet style," esp. on an antoninianus... yours is gorgeous, @benhur767!

AE26 from Thessalonica, c. 210-211:


Denarius, c. 211-215:

 

Neat post, thanks!

I'm missing the helmet-head hairdo and am still looking out for an example.

Early style:


Ringlet:


Braided "border":


Laodicea with ringlet:

 

Some of mine Domnas:
Julia Domna, A.D. 193-217. AR Denarius. Rome mint. Obv. IVLIA AVGVSTA, draped bust right. Rev. VENVS FELIX, Venus standing left, holding apple and drawing veil from shoulder. RIC 580.

Julia Domna, A.D. 193-217. AR Denarius. Rome mint. Obv. IVLIA AVGVSTA, draped bust right. Rev. PVDICITIA, veiled figure of Pudicitia seated left, right hand on her breast, left arm at side. RIC 576.

Julia Domna, A.D. 193-217. AR Denarius. Rome mint. Obv. IVLIA AVGVSTA Draped bust of Julia Domna to right. Rev. SAECVLI FELICITAS Isis, wearing polos, standing right, resting left foot on prow, holding infant Horus at breast with her left hand and patera in her right; behind, rudder leaning against altar. RIC 577.

Julia Domna, A.D. 193-217. AR Denarius. Laodicea ad Mare. Obv. IVLIA AVGVSTA Draped bust of Julia Domna to right. Rev. CONCORDIA Concordia seated left, holding patera in her right hand and double cornucopiae in her left. RIC 637.

 

Great post and coins everyone


Julia Domna, Denarius
Rome mint, AD 214
IVLIA PIA FELIX AVG, draped bust right
DIANA LVCIFERA, Diana Lucifera standing left holding long torch in hands
3.32 gr, 18 mm
Ref : RCV # 7100, RSC # 32, RIC IV-1 # 375a



Julia Domna, Denarius
Rome mint, AD 215
IVLIA PIA FELIX AVG, draped bust of Julia Domna right
LVNA LVCIFERA, Luna in biga of horses left, a crescent above her head and drapery billowing in semi circle behind
2.95 gr, 19-20 mm
Ref : RCV # 7101, Cohen # 105 , RIC IV, I # 379c, Hill # 1477
Ex A. Lynn Collection ; Manhattan sale I #358
Ex Freeman & Sear Mail Bid Sale 6 # 538.

Q

 

Nice Domnae @Roman Collector ! Nice write-up, and great coins!

I BELIEVE I have 4 different styles. Since I am a dead-eye for fashion, I will just post my Domna's coins:


RI Julia Domna 193-195 CE AR Den Vesta Palladium


RI AR Den Julia Domna 193-217 CE VENER VICT Venus RIC IVa p176


RI AR Den Julia Domna 200 CE Felicitas Isis Horus RIC 577


RI Julia Domna 196-211 CE AE As Hilaritas cornuc RIC IVa 877

And, of course, the later - ZOMBIE-DO:

RI Julia Domna 194-217 Fouree AR Plated Den Isis Horus

 

That’s lovely toning. How long has it been sitting out on the table?