Found this 1968 s proof double die obverse the L is evident and the b in Liberty and also the r and the E and we also extra thickness shows on 1968
Willy , STOP posting the same thread over and over. Post each new coin in ONE thread in ONE Forum !!!!!! Jim
I'm so sorry I didn't know I did I went back on my phone and hit the post thread again because I wasn't sure if it posted it doesn't show in my watch threads how can I see that it's posted
I read the whole doubled diehttps://www.errorvariety.com/OFD/MD.html look at all the pictures and I still freaking can't figure this out man it's going to be the life of me
Willy, take it one step at the time. As the article says the "Push" type is by far the most common type of MD, so look just at the top comparison which is a very good illustration of what many of us put into words. On the top one which is the MD look that the "D", part of it appears doubled , but notice the 'step down' which is a result of the flattening action of the loose die or machine function. The depression is step like and flat. Also look to the left of the same leg of the "D", where the flattening ceases, notice its width ( normal width) then look at the 'MD' area , notice how the original part of the "D" is less wide than the damaged part. So two factors ( the height of flattened area is less than original, and secondly the width of the damaged part makes the original less wide and hardly affects the total of both.. Now look at the true DD below that photo. Notice that the doubling is not flat, but rounded and may be the same height of the original , although it depends on the second hubbing pressure and the annealing step in between. It may be shorter by a little, also look that the total width of that portion of the "O" , total of the original and the doubling , is larger than the original. In some DD, the doubling can be so great the part can be almost completely separated. Hoping this will help. and look at the other ones to compare also. Jim
