Did I miss any posts that suggested this method, Axial Lighting? I use a copystand with a dedicated 16MP Nikon Point & Shoot I bought used off Ebay for $25. Using high end cameras seems a waste to me. This setup allows me to shoot with other lighting angles to create animated .gifs with multiple frames without moving the coin. Here's one guys' setup explained with the tools he has. https://photography.tutsplus.com/tutorials/how-to-create-high-key-macro- photos-with-axial-lighting--cms-23476 View attachment 778011 2 pict animation. 1 with raking source and 1 Axial lit.
The challenge is that if the D3100 detects chipping, it requires that the aperture ring to be set to the minimum aperture or it shows the dreaded FEE error code and won't operate. When you're setting the aperture via the camera the non-linearity becomes an issue in all modes. A "chipped" adapter could work as long as it pretends to be a fixed aperture lens. You'd then have to go through the usual dance of opening the aperture to focus and then manually stopping down to meter and shoot. To my way of thinking, for coins the unmetered manual workflow is no more of a hassle. The only extra "bit" one may want is a light meter, and a smart phone app works pretty well for that. And since, as you correctly point out, different coins require different exposure solutions, with a D3100 under constant light it's actually easier to change shutter speeds than to dial in exposure compensation.
My experience is with adapters and manual lenses, using tethering software that performs exposure simulation, so no need to adjust aperture for focusing. With the software, Aperture Priority mode is much preferred to full Manual. I used to use this method with my D5000, and it worked well. If a chipped Nikon lens on the D3100 body forces the aperture ring to be closed down, this is not viable at all. Let alone the difficulty in actually installing the contacts/CPU properly.
I've used axial lighting, but it does tend to eliminate the vertical difference on the coin. It shows defects on the surface ( fine scratches, etc) extremely well, but the "passion " is not stimulated too much for the coin as a whole, and differentiating doubled dies from flattened mechanical doubling is not easy . Jim
Alright, I have below before and after photos of the same SBA dollar. Thanks again to everyone! Before:
Hello everyone! Could someone tell me which photo editing program they use? I've been reading quite a few posts and can't seem to find anything. There are SO many posts my head is swimming lol. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thank You in advance Mark
I use Digital Photo Professional (Canon product, free if you have Canon camera) and Raw Therapy. Both are free. RT is extremely powerful and fairly easy to use.