Please help me value this 1877 Indian Head Cent.

I want to thank @lordmarcovan and @C-B-D for their valuable contributions on most things dealing with the IHC. The link provided above, however, on trending prices for the higher graded coins appears to be a bit low in my experience. In fact, for all but the two KEY dates, I would be happy to pay some of the prices shown there, yet many of the ones I've looked at online are much higher priced than these. Perhaps I am not looking in the right places for these.

 

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R.S. Yeoman's Blue book (2017 version) says between $400-500 - that's a typical offer price from a dealer - person to person value probably closer to $500+ - good luck with your transaction !

 

I am a little late posting this, but let me take a stab at this. I am a novice at grading and need the practice. For now, my grading is based mostly on the degree of wear exhibited. I focus on a particular feature or region of a coin at a time. By a visual comparison to the PCGS Photograde photos, I assign a grade for that particular feature or region according to the closest match. In conclusion, I assign an overall grade to a coin by “taking the average” of all of the grades for each feature or region examined.

Obverse:

First, the feather barbs are more defined in comparison to G6 or even VG8. Looks like a VG10 to me.

Second, part of the L in the tiara is visible as well as the borderline that separates the feathers from the tiara. These features are completely obscured in G6. I will assign it a VG8.

Third, it appears that the coin is slightly off-center, that is, the bottom rim is larger than the top rim. I think this makes the top rim appear more worn than it would if the coin were centered. The dentils around the rest of the obverse are as well defined as a VG10. So, I’ll go with a VG10.

Fourth, the eye region is more detailed than a G6 or even a VG8. I’ll say a VG10 here.

Fifth, the necklace is completely worn in VG8 – especially where the hair curls meet. This region on this specimen shows some detail that is more consistent with VG10. I’ll vote VG10 for this region.

Sixth, the hair curls in the region between the ear and the bottommost feather shows much more detail than that of a G6. I would say this matches best to a VG8.

Reverse:

Seventh, all dentils are well defined. Looking at the PCGS Photograde images, all dentils are visible starting at VG10. The dentils appear sharp in this case, more so than a VG10. So, I will go with an F12.

Eighth, the oak leaves are outlined, especially on the left hand side of the wreath. PCGS Photograde is confusing here. The oak leaves on the photo for a VG10 looks more worn than that for a VG8. I will give a conservative VG8.

Ninth, the arrowheads. The bottom barb on the topmost arrowhead is not visible; however, the barbs on two lower arrowheads are visible. I’ll say G6 for the arrowheads.

Tenth, the arrow tails on this IHC show a little more detail than a G6. It’s more like a VG8.

Eleventh, all of the lines on the left half side of the shield are visible, but begin to fade as the run left-to-right. This is similar to the PCGS Photograde photos for a VG8 grade.

Twelfth, the bow region is heavily worn. I will give it a G6.

Overall, this coin shows different degrees of wear in different regions of the coin. This statement seems contradictory assuming that a coin wears evenly throughout its surfaces. I think it may be due to the differences in strike. I have seen many well struck Capped Bust Half Dollars with letters missing from the motto. In any case, I lack the necessary experience and would greatly appreciate your comments about my strategy to grading as outlined above.

My grade based on the 12 aforementioned points:

2 G6

5 VG8

4 VG10

1 F12

This distribution seems to be centered on VG8 – that’s my final answer! I think?

 

F15

 

I rest your case. No more question your honor

 

VG 10

 

I pretty much agree with Lord M. While wear on the reverse is in the VG range, the verdigris downgrades the coin to a net Good 6. VG8 is a stretch.

BTW another good pickup point for low-grade Indian cents is the amount of dentilation seen around the obverse rim, as well as how much of the vertical shield lines appear at the upper reverse.

Kind regards,

George

 

Since I am new at grading, I thought that I should show my line of reasoning - as crazy as it appears. Using Photograde as a reference, all of the different parts of this coin do not "grade" the same. This is why I posted the lengthy analysis. I was trying to be as objective as possible. Many different grades for this coin were posted. I am trying to see the logic behind grading.

 

The 1909-S Indian is the lowest mintage small cent, but not the most valuable. Rarer than the 1909-S VDB Lincoln.

 

It may be worthwhile to have NCS get the green off. I would do it myself to my coin and save some money, but if you don't know how to do it, pay a professional.

 

@E Pluribus Unum - i think your idea and execution are great. Most people do some kind of similar internal process.

1.Dont combine obverse and reverse. Grade is typically the obverse UNLESS the reverse is substantially worse, when it takes the overall grade down. So a VG8 obverse with a F12 reverse is still VG8 and a VG8 obverse with a AG3 reverse (say a lot of cabinet wear) is an AG3.

2. As you learn more about a specific coin series, you will learn that some areas are more important than others. Which is a nice way of saying that a little (not a lot) of extra wear in a less important area isn't as big a negative. Look at 100 coins, compare your grades to people you respect and trust and you will learn how to adjust your map.

 

Excellent approach, but a “grading overkill”

 

@Burton Strauss III
Thanks for your reply. I was completely unaware of the things you pointed out. I have learned quite a bit here at CoinTalk. I am interested in joining a local coin club, but I have hesitated due to my overall lack of knowledge. I will give it a shot though. Hopefully, I won't be the only novice.

@micbraun
"grading overkill" - I agree. I have spent too many years in the chem lab.

 

Go... Visit a club (or several clubs) a couple times and see if you find one or more you like.

 

Burton Strauss III, I don't doubt coins are graded that way, although I don't agree with it. A coin has two sides and they both should be graded and valued equally in coming up with a net grade for the coin.
Here is my question, what happens when the reverse is the important side, as in the State Quarter and National Park Quarter series'?

 

by what method would you do this Finn? I'm curious as to what you feel is the best way to remove corrosion from a coin so that it straight grades?

 

I use methylene chloride soaked into a Q-tip, then roll it over the surface. They used to make something called MS70 that had some similar solvents. Since the coin is circulated, you could probably get pretty good results with acetone. Just make sure to soak it for a few minutes, then roll the Q-tip over it - never rub - that will put hairlines on it. Then I would rinse it with some 91% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and let it dry. Then put it in a flip.

It is a nice coin worth $500+ and eagerly sought by collectors. Worth getting graded.