Need some expert help on 3 coins

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No. Take it from experience. That DOES NOT WORK. She just gets angry lol.

 

I am not sure either but I have an 83 that could be called a richard-face or a richard head. Trying not to be crude in my description. My 83 looks just like the one you posted with something on high cheek? Anyone else see it?

 

Let me guess! You've never seen another one like it. Let me know when you've checked the other 7,752,354,999 Lincoln cents struck in Philly in 1983.

Chris

 

Chris,
I appreciate your replies. I wasn't actually intent on seeing something not there, it was I saw something that looked like distorted letters and tried to logically, assess...that it wasn't. Why I wanted another opinion from the experts.

On the 1983, there is a space on part of the rim and I can physically put a toothpick in it. Let me know if another angle helps. My cell phone doesn't take great pictures.

The MD question was based on another forum talking about double dies and MD's. Most agreed that, although every "error" is unique the particular distinguishable factors to categorize has percentages of rarity. Thus, my question. Was curious as a novice coin collector.

 

Can you post your coin? You seem excited about it and I'd like to see it, regardless of how many struck that year.

 

tienes razón cariño

du har rett, kjære

maikaʻiʻoe, ka meli

 

That's why I'm divorced and happier for it.

Chris

 

hahahahaha mutual, i'm sure ; )

 

No offense intended, Michele, but a lot of people who have caught the "error coin bug" tend to look too hard for something that isn't there. Sometimes they refuse to accept the explanations given to them by collectors who have been in the hobby for decades. In most cases, if these people made a concerted effort to learn more about the minting process, they would probably laugh real hard at themselves.

Again, I am not implying that you are one of those people, but once you have been actively participating on these forums for a few years, you will understand what I mean.

If you are referring to the marks on the right side of the obverse rim, they look like small hits to me.

I don't put much faith in the R-Factors that are used. They are almost always based on guesstimates. Not all errors are unique. Unique implies that the coin is a one-of-a-kind.

I found the coin below in a Mint bag in 2004. There is only one other known to exist, but that doesn't mean there aren't others laying around in some hoard.



I hope this helps.

Chris

 

Actually, I completely get it. Several years ago, I was one of those people determined the experts didn't understand. Since then, I've learned a lot and only come on here when researched and couldn't find. Saying this...lol, we will have to disagree on the 83 and blame the camera. I'm not looking to make it rich on the coin, just determine why there is a gap.

The 1937 buffalo was the coin I'm most interested in learning about...with an open mind to understand. I've read extensively on this complex topic ...what has confused me is this...and, by no means, arguing to be right but sincerely understand.

1. if it isn't a key date, seems to be an automatic "MD response" especially, if posted by someone not considered an expert.
2. I've seen coins deemed as double die's that are older that are flat or shelf like, without the die scratches ? like the 1936 wheat. The nickel does have die scratches, and doubling or MD in various locations on obverse side. Why I asked for help what to look for. Someone once mentioned looked at the size and rotation.

 

Yes, we will have to disagree. I still contend that the rim took a hit. If there had been a break on the rim, it would be raised from coin metal filling the gap when it is struck.

1. Being a key date has absolutely nothing to do with doubling of any kind.

2.The age of a coin has nothing to do with it being a doubled die unless you are referring to the die state....early, mid or late....to properly attribute the coin.

Die scratches have nothing to do with true hub doubling. Usually, scratches on a die are associated with cleaning the face of a die and would result in raised lines appearing on the struck coin(s).

Size and rotation have nothing to do with true hub doubling.

I went back and took a second look at the Buff, and I still contend that what you see on the date is machine doubling.

Chris

 

The 1983 has plating blisters by the WE next to the rim and also running from the bottom of the T in TRUST to the rim. The planchet supplier had a terrible time plating the early zinc Cents, so it's not uncommon to see this.

Chris and Furryfrog have given you the explanation on the Buffalo. Machine doubling and a gouge on the nose.

Others have also pointed out the lamination error on the wheat cent. Since this is caused by impurities or bubbles in the ingot, before it is rolled into strips and punched into blanks, each one is unique. Cool find but of nominal value.

 

Oldhoopster

Interesting reply! This thread was about learning and various opinions .. It's expensive to slab coins and discerning which ones..

Wexler has buff nickels that look like the 1937 posted here (other dates)... other coin forums here discuss size difference (effigy mounds) and die scratches to determine if md or dd... Other "experts" call the 83 misaligned
I don't ask about my coins on here because I believe researching first, on my own. All the experts and collectors on here volunteer their knowledge and time. It is extremely appreciated. ..I do think there is a md knee jerk response and then...look at the coin ...lol..AND I get why. You guys can be pretty scary and intimidating when asking a question.

I'm going to send my buff nickel for evaluation and share the findings.

Thanks again

 

I don't think the 1983 cent is a MAD. I think it was at one time but it was misaligned TOWARD the area that now shows the thickened rim and collisions/abrasions of the edge of the die against the collar wore away the edge of the die. Then the die was reset to normal alignment. There is a term for this type of error but I can never remember it. You will notice the thickened rim comes all the way in to the edge of the lettering. On a MAD you would have a wide rim but it would still end the normal distance away from the lettering

 

The space between the field and rim is a precise circular edge ...if I said that correctly. I looked for other examples but didn't find. Maybe because I didn't know how to define it. I appreciate you really taking some time to evaluate ..