Note: if you hate Daniel Carr tokens, please show some restraint and don't post in my thread. Thanks! Please look at my "before" and "after" pics. 1) Are these carbon spots or something else? 2) Did the 24-hour soak in acetone and rinse in tap water help? 3) Should I have done anything different? Rinse in distilled water, perhaps? BEFORE AFTER
Looks like residue was left as a spot in front of the chin and you left a fingerprint mark at the 1 & 2 right stars. After you let it sit in acetone for a few minutes pick it up by the edges with forefinger & thumb and pour clean acetone over both sides then set it down on a paper towel.
Looks like more of a milk spot. I don't think it's a carbon spot. Milk spots are usually impossible to get rid of.
Could be but I don't see it in the before pics. Doesn't mean it's not there though. If it is a milk spot it ain't coming out. He needs to dip it again to remove the fingerprint anyway so we'll see.
robec said: "Looks like more of a milk spot. I don't think it's a carbon spot. Milk spots are usually impossible to get rid of." You are correct. It looks like a milk spot. However, it is not a milk spot. Read what @Cascade posted. BTW, I've seen over a hundred of Carr's products and have yet to find one with a true "milk spot." The coin needs to be dipped again to remove all the left over spots. As for the original spots, try MS-70 first, then a dip. The spot between the eye and the rim may not come out.
Maybe he will replace it if it isn't tampered with by dip, it done by an individual, not the government.
In June I received one of his 1917 Peace dollars with bunches of tiny spots. Daniel said the cause was probably some sort of contaminant. He offered to replace it which I took him up on. I'm not sure if he would have a replacement for your Barber since it was a while ago.
I would ask @dcarr what he recommends. Here is what he posted on another forum: "There is an effective and safe way to mitigate the toning if you are interested. As long as they are not heavily toned, a "dip" type cleaner will take care of it, if used properly. I recommend this procedure: Get a black plastic bottle of "Tarn-X" silver cleaner (available at Walgreen's) or any similar "dip" type cleaner. Submerge the medal in the cleaner for about 15 to 30 seconds. Then rinse it completely under the tap (including the edges) and then pat dry with a clean soft cotton bath towel (never rub dry, only pat dry). This type of "dip" cleaning will not harm the luster (or even a hologram), so long as it is done properly. This will also work for relatively light toning on mint copper, brass, nickel, etc. You can re-use the cleaner on other medals and coins. But note that if you clean a lot of very dirty tarnished silver coins the cleaning solution will eventually turn yellowish. You can still use yellowed cleaner on silver coins. But if you put a copper piece in yellow solution, it can plate silver onto the copper."
How about this one? Bought it this way so not sure what happened to it. Never seen one of Daniel's coins look like this.
I can't believe he gave such a response , first using a full strength dip on any coin but on copper . Try dipping a copper coin and see what color it turns . 10-15 seconds is also too tong . Try a diluted dip , I won't go over 25% dip for 3-5 seconds and repeat if needed . That's some terrible advice to give out especially to newbies or people who haven't dipped a coin before !
Carr is writing about dipping SILVER not copper. Otherwise, I agree that his method should not be followed. Ther are plenty of posts on CT that give instructions on dipping. Unfortunately many are also bad!
I've never dipped..........if acetone don't work, I'm a scardy cat to carry on. Too many things to go wrong. Especially on something that's worth a bit of money.
