Hello all. I'm new to coin collecting and found it to be very addictive and enjoy it very much. My question is, what coins should I send in to get graded? I have a great selection, I believe, that could be very valuable. I have Lincoln coins at: 1959, 1959 D, 1969 S , multiple 1970 S, 1996, 2010-2017P, 2014 Bubbled coin, and others. Most came out of an uncirculated roll which looked untouched and in excellent condition. And these coins have Full Steps as well. (One of my 1969 S coins has the S way high up inside the date and beside/behind the "9". I would like to send in 8 coins at one time and am not sure which 8 to send in to maximize the value of what I would spend. Can someone please advise me on what to send in or do next? I would really appreciate it...
Welcome Joseph. Unless the dates you listed are MS 67 RD, the cost to get graded will exceed the value of the coin. Without pictures the experts will not be able to give you much advice. Cents are not graded with full steps. Post a couple pictures and you will get some information to your question.
Thanks & thanks for the input. I will definitely post some pics tonight after work. I really appreciate it...
Welcome Joseph, and like Schwav & Treas said above, don't spend money sending something in to the TPG's unless the value of the coin warrants the submission.
Welcome to the neighborhood, Joseph! Quite often we get newcomers to the hobby who think that their bright, shiny coins should be submitted for grading even though they have no understanding about grading and how those grades affect the value. I'd much rather see you spend some money on a book about grading instead of spending it on coins that will never ever be worth the cost of grading. Chris
1st, wow, you guys are quick to help and I do appreciate it. I'm already glad I signed up here!!! And I do understand that it's not about a shiny coin. I have studied/researched the grading system pretty thoroughly over the last 3 months and continue to educate myself on a daily basis. (Which I enjoy btw.) I don't mind spending a bit on grading as it will really educate me on how it works, values, etc. I will post my pics and see what you think about them & what to possibly send. Keep an eye out for them later tonight. Looking forward to hearing from ya'll. Thanks again.
The general rule is of course it has to be worth more in the slab than Raw. Depending on which company you pick it's going to run you from $10 to $32 for a coin valued up to about $300. Plus postage and Insurance both ways. Use PCGS' online photograde and be honest in your grade estimates. We all love our coins to be higher grade than they are, but when it comes to grading if you undervalue them and they get lost in shipping you don't get the full value back. And if you overvalue them you're just paying more to have the service done than it's worth. You can then go out on eBay and check actual sold prices - not listings people can ask anything they want - and see whether that 1921 Morgan in XF sold for enough to pay for grading. The economics change if you can qualify for bulk grading That can be as little as $5 a coin and dealers submit large numbers of say American silver eagles hoping to get a few seventies that pay big bucks. The 69s they sell for spot plus a few $ and any other dogs they don't even bother with. But that's the numbers game and not one you're playing. But if you ever wonder how somebody can sell an ms65 1950s Lincoln cent in PCGS plastic that's where it came from: somebody had a couple rolls bulk graded.
My rule of thumb is minimum raw coin value of $200, and then it's worthy of being graded. Sounds like you want to take advantage of ANACS summer insider special, which is what I just did. I struggled to find 8 coins, and only submitted 7. Three of those were the reason getting anything graded; 1787 Fugio, 1922 No D LWC, and a 1795 Large Cent. The 1795 I really just wanted the attribution for it (S-76a) as it will grade low, but with the attribution it will help if/when I go to sell. I added in 2 1857 Flying Eagles with mule clashes, and an 1864 2¢ RPD. You may want to see if you can piggyback worth someone else who is already submitting, but otherwise, I doubt I would submit any of those you have.
Hello I am new to this site I have a question for you if you had alot of good errors coins will you send them off to ngc or pcgs.
That would depend on the error, condition of the coin, and estimated value of the coin with the error attribution from a TPG vs raw. If it's a coin that is regularly counterfeited, then yes, getting the verification of the coin being genuine would be beneficial. Not every coin needs to be graded by a TPG to realize it's highest value potential. There is also the opposite. As an example, I was struggling to find a 'decent' 1932-P for my album for <$20. It seemed everyone selling one was pricing them like '32-D's and 32-S's, it was crazy. I ended up getting an AU55 in an ANACS slab for $15, including shipping, which I'm perfectly happy with. So really give grading some thought before you throw money at the TPG's.
You might also consider ANACS, they attribute more errors than the big two, with reportedly about the same level of inaccuracy.
Here are some of my coins I mentioned earlier. If i can get an opinion on them would be great. it would definitely give me an idea of grading, type, value, etc. And sorry about the pics, can't quite get a clear close up pic.Much appreciated...
I'm not seeing anything worth slabbing. The planning bubbles on the shield cent are considered normal (or damage) not an error. The 69 s (proof?) But the picture isn't sharp enough to say whether it's high enough grade to be worth it. The 99D looks common with some tarnish spots.
