Full steps means: FULL STEPS

I am new to nickels so correct me if i am wrong. I am thinking 4.75 full steps is as good as ZERO full steps as far as value goes on Jefferson nickels, is this right ?

http://item.express.ebay.com/BU-196...mZ2199000057QQihZ001QQtrZexpQQcmdZExpressItem

 

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Although no expert on Full Step Jeffersons, let me take a swing at this. Pre-1980 something, for a nickel to be full steps, it must have at least 5 full steps. More modern coins require 6 full steps for the full step designation.

In the arena of value, a coin is what it is... it is worth what someone will pay for it and not a penny less. If someone finds this 4.75 step nickel more desirable than one with zero steps, then the beauty is in the eye of the beholder. As far as selling it to a dealer, I would expect no better offer for a 4.75 step nickel than one with 0 steps.

This eBay seller is hyping his coin as any good circus barker would do for his show. I think one of my favorite song lyrics applies here. "Don't believe the hype!"

Coin Values (a sister publication of Coin World) did a really nice article on exactly how the grading services determine how many steps a nickel has. I can photograph it if you like and could e-mail it to you, but I don't think it can be shared here except to type the article in.

 

here's NGC article on it

http://www.ngccoin.com/news/viewarticle.asp?IDArticle=175

Here's another article regarding partial steps

http://www.collectors-society.com/registry/coins/MySets_Listing.aspx?PeopleSetID=1393

 

oh check this site out guys..make you drool..lol

http://lestroup.spaces.live.com/

 

Great info Twiggs!!!

You only need one beautiful old Jefferson Nickel to get you hooked!!!

That third web site is something else. The second link was well written and I'll probably read that more than once.

Best Regards,

Darryl

 

I'm a bit of a Nickel-hound, and I noticed something on the gentleman's registry: PCGS has much weaker criteria than NGC for their determination of Full Steps. Just looking through the first few in his registry, I was shocked at what PCGS considered "full".

 

The thing of 4.75 steps and such has been going on for sometime. I think SEGS is the only grading company (ANACS might do it also) that uses this system though at this time. While it is not a system that has caught on much these days I think it could. People are always looking for something that sounds good for less....that is why SGS sells so many coins

You might be happy to know that varietynickels.com has gotten permission to use the info and photos from his set for online use!

That is true for any such thing----such as FBL on Franklins, FH on SL Quarters, and on an on...but yet people still think PCGS is KING and pay moon money for them.

Speedy

 

I agree. I have bought six PCGS Full step nickels off Ebay where the pictures were not so good (as far as the steps). Out of the six I would call three of them Full Steps. So I no longer buy FS PCGS coins unless I can see them in hand. NGC and ANACS are far better on steps in my opinion.

 

Welcome to nickel collecting.
Your question is difficult to answer.
Perhaps you should look at nickel collecting from a different angle.

"Full Steps" is a marketing term.
It can be interpreted in different ways, depending on who's describing it.

Modern Jefferson nickels (1989-date), are commonly found with fully struck step detail, mainly because of their low-releif design.
Earlier issues must be considered on a date-by-date basis.
Some date/mintmark issues are commonly weak in this area, while others are more often highly detailed.

There are several factors to consider, when suggesting the term; "Full Steps".
First of all, we need to determine if "full" means "FULL", or does it mean "almost full"?
If it means "full". then that particular area of the design must have a true representation of the six steps that lead up to the entrance to Montecello.
If it means "almost full". then it's anyone's guess as to how you should interpret the term.

There are some date/mintmark issues which are virtualy unknown with full steps, simply because the hubs didn't include that much detail.
Another factor to consider is that the "steps" are usually directly opposite of the high point of the obverse design.
So therefor, when the coin was struck, the metal more redily flowed into the deepest recesses of the obverse hair design.
This would only be true with earlier high-releif designs.

Other considerations are length of die usage, and number of uncirculated coins saved after issue,

My personal opinion, on the subject, is that each individual must determine what is important to him/her.
I pay no attention to what the "marketeers" say is important.
I look for coins that are well struck (on both sides), and with very few post-mint contact marks.
My focus, like most collectors', is on the obverse eye appeal.
If the coin has full hair detail, clean and brilliant surfaces, and a matching reverse, then it's probably a keeper.

I would like to remind everyone that marketing terms are created to sell product.
Coin collecting is a hobby.
The two, are completly different.

 

did proof hubs have better detail or was it a softer metal used for the coin?

 

Better dies, & hubs, more pressure in the strike, same metal.

 

Oops, I forgot that one.
Thanks, GDJMSP for keeping me accurate.

 

"Proof hubs"?
That's a new one on me.
Proof coins are struck from specially prepared dies and planchets, as well as a different minting process, but the dies come from the same master, and working hubs, as all other dies.
Some early proof nickels don't have full step detail because that area of the design wasn't fully detailed into the hubs.

All Jefferson nickel proofs are of the same metal composition as the circulation strikes, and mint set issues, of the same date.

 

Thanks. My mistake, i meant die, not hub.

Personally, i like the idea of having six full steps with no nicks or scratches on them. 4.75 just does not do it for me.

 

I think all nickel buffs would prefer six full steps with no nicks or scratches but some years have no known examples and others are in the $1000's of dollars. So we learn to cherish that tuff year 4.5 or 4.75 stepper that we pick out of dealer stock.

 

Examples

Any photo examples from a members collection ?

 

We have recently added a very nice quality 1961-D. (Yes, you will need to click the link above to see this coin, thank you Twiggs!) This specific date took a combined 50+ est. years and 4 collectors to locate. There are several dates that qualify for the 4.75 QSC (quarter step count) that is, if you're collecting fully struck coins. As someone said, don't expect a dealer to pay you good money for it. For that matter, don't try to sell it to your Uncle Ed either especially if he doesn't have a clue to the coin's rarity. These type of coins move among true collectors who know how difficult it is to locate those dates.........even with 4.75 steps. A perfect example would be the 1961-D. But if you don't understand the history and difficulty of this series, this coin will be a bore to you as well.


Leo

 

Welcome to Coin Talk loethelion!

Nothing boring about nice looking nickels with or without steps - the more the merrier though!

Best Regards,

Darryl

 

Hi Darryl

I have a brother with that name! I want to ramble a bit on quality coins.
The more the merrier has everything to do with the number of qualities a coin may possess. There are 6 possible qualities for business strikes. Proof coins can have as many as 7 if you’re including cameo frost. Each coin’s desirability is based in the following order; the strike first, the grade/condition second, the luster, toning and the two rare qualities; EDS strike and prooflike fields and/or surfaces.
Most market acceptable certified coins are usually based on luster and or toning. Once in awhile, the strike and grade/condition will come into play for higher graded coins but unfortunate, this has not always been the case. I’ve seen many times the number of overgraded than accurate graded coins. The fact is, MS66 and MS67 certified coins need to have more than one or two qualities. If you’re a discerning collector, you will want the most qualities in a coin for your money! This is a simple fact among true and experience collectors. Experienced dealers know this as well and when those coins surface, they’re usually spear-headed towards/forward to those collectors/investors who will pay handsomely to acquire them. Many of those coins will end up in a major auction house if there is not an immediate buyer.
The average collector can enjoy those coins of limited qualities as long as they don’t pay an arm and leg to build their collections because in the long run, they will not hold up in the true collectors market.

Leo