e-z-est should be fabulous on the proof as well as other silver coins. I haven't had much experience with it on clads
I was on the right path of not patting down and distilled water. I bathed it for a couple of hours, then took it out and while holding it over the container poured more acetone over it.
what I did at first, especially, is quick dips of less than 2 seconds each. try to expose all surfaces (including where you're holding the coin), and just repeat until it's bright, then rinse completely.
@Bman33 This is my last attempt. Get some MS-70 and forget the dip for now. Rinse in very hot soapy water. I have been told by the folks who conserve coins on a daily basis that they rarely use E-Zest to dip clad coins except in certain cases and in a particular way. Unfortunately they did not go into details.
@Insider He is not talking about a clad coin, but rather a 40% silver clad Ike. My personal experience is not great with silver clad Ikes and MS-70, but much better with e-z-est
@Insider @mikenoodle Yeah, it is a 40% silver, both of them. I am spending more on products to make the coins better than they are worth! This is all relatively inexpensive so I am not worried. I am excited to see what happens with the experiments. I think I will try MS-70 on the Blue Ike and Ezest for the Brown.
What kind of acetone did you use? The pure sold as a solvent stuff or 'nail polish remover' acetone? I once made the mistake of using the nail polish stuff in a pinch and despite not stating any additional additives on the label there was clearly something else in there that stayed on the coins surface I soaked after use.
mikenoodle, posted: "He is not talking about a clad coin, but rather a 40% silver clad Ike." Thank You! In that case he should prepare the surface with MS-70 BEFORE using the dip.
I have seen great results with both MS-70 and Ezest on silver Ikes before. While I haven't used either I have been told by a few people the Ezest is harder to use. I would not suggest putting a cloudy silver business strike or proof Ike in acetone. I wish I could've warned you before you did it. The 1971 Silver business strikes tend to be very cloudy when stored in their mint cello. All Brown Box Ikes tone blue due to the material in the packaging and have a problem with cloudiness. I had to look for some time before I found a clear 1971 Proof Ike. I suggest you look for one that is not in it's OGP. This one came in a 2x2. A little haze that's not noticeable in hand. But way better than most raw ones.
BMan, think of the money spent as numismatic tuition, and the things that you learn can be adapted to other areas of the hobby. Ikes are a great place that you can make mistakes that don't cost a fortune.
It will be easier to find a nice one that is not in the OGP, but mostly because more than likely, someone already (properly) dipped it.
I would also say this: If you're going to compare dips, compare apples to apples. Use proof coins for both, or unc coins for both, but don't do unc in one, and proof in the other and expect to be able to extrapolate anything from it.
I was thinking about that. Even the Brown and Blue 40% silver are different. I can go down to my shop and get one more of each. I'll talk the dealer down if I am asking for ones that need conservation.
That was my thinking as well. It was either dipped properly or was taken out of OGP a long time ago. I agree 100% with this.
If your dealer lets you search through what he has (Some don't) before you go check out this site. http://www.ikegroup.info/ Check out their DIVA listings. This will let you know what to cherry pick.