trying another picture. FULL BANDS?

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

I uploaded this 1916 dime before but the picture wasn't very good. I hope this is better but I'm not sure.his this full bands or am I kidding myself To me this is such a beautiful coin in hand. It also has some nice toning. I saw an MS 65 PCGS on EBAY. I think mine is better. Maybe I am biased. Is this FB ? WOrth sending to PCGS ? TIA for opinions

 

It surly is a very nice looking coin. From what I can see it is FB. Have you compared
it to the PCGS photograde online? Will having it slabbed increase it's value?
I'm not well versed in this, but will you have more into it than it is worth?

 

The image is a bit too small and out of focus to make a solid opinion.

 

Need better pictures.

 

FSB yes. MS maybe. I'm leaning more toward AU.

 

Looks AU-ish to me and well struck. Even so I'd rather have yours than a dipped MS, I like the original skin.

 

Needs more focus.

What are you doing slumming with silver anyhow?

Looks like a really nice coin from what I can see. Is that hint of color present on the coin, or just a reflection? (I see some of the same color in the surrounding plastic in the reverse shot.)

 

Yes it has some toning beginning to appear on the coin. Its a very beautiful dime. If only it had a D on the reverse. Thanks for opinions. I will soon be sending to PCGS

 

I can't tell 'ditz' from those photogs.......c'mon. You can do better than that.

 

Rare to find an early merc with FB.
I can't tell from the photo.
I imagine an early merc with FB would be low population.

 

Not really, as I understand it. The price difference from 1916 P and D is pretty minimal until you get into the upper MS grades, and for the S it doesn't start opening up until 62-63.

Remember, FB is a matter of strike and die state, NOT wear or age.

 

If an old Merc is very worn, it's not going to matter how good the strike was or how early the die stage was if you can't see any lines on the fasces.

 

PCGS Pops show 130 in MS64 and 1555 in MS64FB. No doubt some of those are attempted crossovers, but there are over 1000 in 65FB and that's still only a $175 coin.

As a hint, @goldcollector, it won't be possible to get the whole coin in focus until you present it flat and parallel to the lens rather than tilted. There is insufficient depth of field in this type of photography to sharply capture a coin tilted relative to the lens.

 

Well, of course. For that matter, if it's worn enough, the year it was struck won't matter.

 

Maybe I misunderstood you but price difference between D and P is massive. The D is highly valuable even in G 4

 

Thank you. I will try this when I get home tonight

 

I can't blame you, I must have had socks on my hands when I typed that.

The price difference between FB and non-FB examples in a given grade is relatively small for 1916-P and 1916-D coins. For 1916-S, the difference gets significant after you get above MS61-62.

But a 1945-P example is ten times more expensive than either 1916-P or S in FB.

 

The picture is still a little fuzzy. But the middle band is the big one that will turn the corner for you usually if you got it.