Stereo Microscope

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by kanga, Apr 25, 2017.

  1. kanga

    kanga 65 Year Collector

    I'm considering getting one, possibly with a camera attached.
    If you have one or have experience with one, particularly if you have used it with coins, I'll highly value your comments.

    Magnification: I thinking in the 20x-60x range
    I see many that can go as low as 3.5x.
    And some that can go to 90x.
    The lower end could be useful but I'm not sure that above 60x would be useful.

    Lighting: What should I look for? Brightness. Color. Etc.
    IMO backlighting (from the stage) would be worse than useless; it would be downright annoying.

    Imaging: IF I go for some sort of imaging system what type?
    What capability (megapixels)?

    Other: What have I overlooked?
    I remember one that allowed you to rotate the stage with a knob. That seems useful for view adjustments without actually touching the object.
     
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  3. cpm9ball

    cpm9ball CANNOT RE-MEMBER

    If you're opting for a traditional stereomicroscope rather than one of the hand-held digital microscopes like the Dino-Lite, you'll want a trinocular model that has a dedicated eyepiece for the camera attachment. My old stereomicroscope had only two eyepieces, and you were continually switching back and forth from eyepiece to camera. It was a pain in the butt. Trust me!

    Rather than a set of fixed-magnification lenses that swivel, you're better off getting a model with a zoom lens. Some of these models come with built-in, over and under halogen lights equipped with a dimmer switch.

    My old set-up.........
    1532033-IMG_1250[1].jpg

    Chris
     
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  4. JAY-AR

    JAY-AR Well-Known Member

  5. JAY-AR

    JAY-AR Well-Known Member

    I also have one of these that I modified the stand to capture a full photo of a silver dollar. My only complaint for the AMscope camera is the field of view is very small. But, it takes very high quality photos in that limited view. Software is pretty easy too, hell, if I can figure it out I'm sure you guys can:snaphappy:
     
  6. JAY-AR

    JAY-AR Well-Known Member

  7. JAY-AR

    JAY-AR Well-Known Member

    Nice setup Chris!
     
  8. Insider

    Insider Talent on loan from...

    kanga, asked: If you have one or have experience with one, particularly if you have used it with coins, I'll highly value your comments.

    I've had a little experience looking at coins with several types and brands of stereo microscopes ranging from $59 brand X to over $3000 Nikon. My opinions based on that little amount of experience:

    Magnification: I thinking in the 20x-60x range. No, no, no! NO!

    "The lower end could be..." IS the most useful. It depends what you are doing (authentication, variety detection, grading, interesting mint made characteristics vs PMD) as most coins are viewed with the lowest power available. Believe it or not, the lighting you use is almost more important than the magnification. Different types of light are necessary for different tasks. Example: Halogen light pipe used at 60+ X to detect a seam on an extremely well done added mint mark. "...useful but I'm not sure that above 60x would be useful. You are correct, 30X to 40X is plenty 99% of the time. Just looked. Mine is set at 7X at the moment (its lowest setting).

    Lighting: What should I look for? Brightness. Color. Etc.
    IMO backlighting (from the stage) would be worse than useless; it would be downright annoying. I have not found any light source attached to the scope to be ideal. You'll need a florescent light for authentication and grading plus a 75 to 100 watt adjustable lamp for grading. I'll try to take a photo of my setup.

    Imaging: IF I go for some sort of imaging system what type?
    What capability (megapixels)? I'm ignorant on this subject! I have a Cannon digital camera on the third tube.

    Other: What have I overlooked?
    I remember one that allowed you to rotate the stage with a knob. That seems useful for view adjustments without actually touching the object.

    Get used to holding the coin by the edge, between your fingers. You can control the viewing angle easily. That is as important as the lighting! If the coin is in the wrong orientation you will still not see a scratch or hairlines at 30X!

    PS IMO, at this time, those digital scopes we see all over are basically toys!
     
  9. JAY-AR

    JAY-AR Well-Known Member

    Great info Insider!
     
  10. messydesk

    messydesk Well-Known Member

    60x is way too much magnification. I have a 7-30x scope, and I imagine it's usually set between 10-15x.

    I have a Bausch & Lomb StereoZoom 4 with a fluorescent ringlight attached. I then taped a card over maybe 1/3 of the ring so that I can have some depth. The light is cool enough that I can cover parts with my hand if I need to.

    For photos, I have a 10 MP point and shoot sitting next to my scope that I aim through the eyepieces. Not as handy as a trinocular scope, but those are considerably more expensive when you want one with good optics, and I wasn't ready to spend that kind of money at the time. I have taken tens of thousands of images this way. I would probably prefer, and get better images with a trinocular with a DSLR permanently mounted, but I haven't yet been compelled to take that step. Most of the images I take are resized to 600x450 (0.27 MP), so don't be too worried about having a ton of pixels. Here's a sample:

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. desertgem

    desertgem Senior Errer Collecktor

    Almost all of the stereozooms have a plate of glass or painter metal , light on one side and dark on the other. In the metal one it is easy to drill and tap a small screw hole and add a proper threaded knurled from the specialty connector boxes at a good hardware store. then you just gently rotate the plate by using the projecting screw.

    Also, at Walmart paint supplies today, I noticed that KILZ brand of colors had nice 8x10 sheet solid color paint 'chip' with peelable sticky on the back. So if you want different color background for your coins, gems, insects, just stick a sheet on your stage, and trim with a blade leaving a tab to aid removing. It is reusable, so stick it back on the backing until needed later. I took a few greys white and colors so white balance can be easier. I am planning to repaint some metal storage, so I will eventual buy some paint of one color, once I am ready.

    If you are wanting to attach cameras to a scope through the eyepiece, look in Astronomy or Sky and Telescope for the firms that manufacture holders. Even cell phone camera can be attached at the proper distance.
     
  12. rmpsrpms

    rmpsrpms Lincoln Maniac

    I use Bausch & Lomb scopes and would recommend them, but most are not trinocular. I've never met a trinoc that I liked, and I've owned quite a few.
     
  13. kanga

    kanga 65 Year Collector

    Thanks for all of the replies.

    My efforts to ID the die varieties of my large cents using Grellman's book have taught me that my 9x loupe just can't do the job.
    Some of the features I'm trying to see are just too small.
    I'm going to do some serious hunting for a GOOD stereo microscope.
    What "bells and whistles" I get will be determined by hands-on trials.

    If all goes as I expect, Wednesday will be my first scouting expedition.
     
  14. tken1950

    tken1950 Member

    I have a question, would you be more likely to buy one with a field of view of 2.5" to be able to get the whole coin. If not what would be the minimum field of view you would suggest?
     
  15. Colonialjohn

    Colonialjohn Active Member

    I have a B&L but I use for contemporary circulating counterfeits and not Mint State Morgans ... 10-30X ... works great. An older model from my company's old inventory. Free.

    John Lorenzo
    United States
     
  16. kanga

    kanga 65 Year Collector

    2.5" is nice.
    That's 63.5 mm and Morgans are only 38.1 mm.
    So my largest coins would show in their entirety.
    BUT I need to see small features and at the moment I think that will require something in the 30x-60x range.
    Field of view is not my problem; magnification is.
     
  17. benveniste

    benveniste Type Type

    I have one of the Amscope 3.5x-90x scopes. As with coins, this is a "you get what you pay for" purchase, but if you don't expect too much out of the optical system it can be both fun and useful to use.

    A 2.5" field of view at 3.5x magnification would be a very specialized optic indeed.
     
  18. LaCointessa

    LaCointessa Well-Known Member

    If you can test drive one with a mechanical stage, and it won't damage the casings or edges of your coins, maybe that could be a good feature to have on your microscope. (Securing little rubbery eyeglass nose bridge protectors on the mechanical stage where it touches the specimen might work)
     
  19. ldhair

    ldhair Clean Supporter

    I have a 10-30X but have never attached a camera. I never trusted the quality of what was out there. I'm sure there is something out there today that would do a nice job. Probably time I started looking again. I don't see lighting as an issue. It's easy to add or remove lamps of different types.
     
  20. rmpsrpms

    rmpsrpms Lincoln Maniac

    There are several types of XY stages available that don't contact the subject at all. I highly recommend these.
     
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  21. Insider

    Insider Talent on loan from...

    :rolleyes: The best "mechanical stage" is your fingers connected to your hand and arm! Coins are not slides or thin sections. They have depth. They need to be tipped and rotated at the same time quickly w/o turning knobs or adjusting for size.
     
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