Why is there such a difference in prices with price guides?

I noticed looking up the shield cents that pcgs has such a higer value on them in MS condition than NGC, why is that?

 

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Could be because the other one has the top, pop., in a higher grade ..

 

2010 shield MS67 valued at 1,650 pcgs. Would you pay anything close to that?

 

This is the only one, graded at 67 . That's why it's 1600 dollars and some change . Until another one is found, that's the price guide for what the coins worth .......

 

Price guides rarely truly reflect the market price. However, if the guides are using recent auction data, there could have been a history of PCGS selling for more than NGC and that phenomenon is reflected in the price (why PCGS sells for more at auction is another story and involves multiple factors including perceptions of collectors, grading standards, registry players, etc).

Another possibility is that a unique specimen sold for strong money (i.e. monster toner or famous pedigree) and that outlier skewed prices for the entire series.

 

Price guides are published by people with a vested interest in high coin prices. Some are more, um, optimistic than others.

 

I'd like to know where they get the numbers when there is zero auction data... such as is the case with 1964-d .25 varieties.
http://www.pcgscoinfacts.com/Coin/Detail/146005 - rpm fs501
http://www.pcgscoinfacts.com/Coin/Detail/145655 - ddo fs101

 

PCGS always thinks they are better than everyone else, and if you disagree with them, just see how quickly you are banned from their forums.

Chris

 

I don't care if it is graded 71.
Only a fool spends $1650 for a 2010 shield cent.

 

On my first day there some years ago I got into an all out flame war when I made the claim that there is a possibility that there is a coin that exists in a PCGS holder--from any generation--that is overgraded by at least 2 grades on the Sheldon scale. The responses dismissed that theory entirely, while throwing shade at NGC, insinuating that they overgrade coins by 2 or more on the Sheldon scale all the time. Imagine that: people at CU actually believe that in PCGS' entire history, not one single coin has been overgraded by 2 points, but for their top competitor, those are a dime a dozen on any given Tuesday.

This is the best advice there is.

PCGS price guides are almost always on the inflated side, and if I'm not mistaken, are meant to reflect the value of coins in those grades in a PCGS holder.

NGC, from my experience, is more down to Earth, however, the best online price guide that I've used is Numismedia. Their values seem to be more elastic, but still aren't perfect.

As Doug stated, quick searches through completed listings on eBay and Heritage are the best way to determine the going rates for any coin.

 

One reason for PCGS to list coin values on the high side is the 1% they get for coins that cross or get upgraded via reconsideration.

Cal

 

PCGS top Pop moderns do routinely sell for higher than NCG so that is why their guide would be higher. That said it is just a guesstimate. Top Pops are always a wild card in auction.

That's not true, someone who loves them and has the means and wants the best would likely do it. That would actually be pretty cheap for a POP 1/0 modern.

 

Not on your life........but that's just me. There are a world of fools (my estimation) out there in the wide expanse of the universe. If they want to pay this amount of 'jing' for something trivial as this they can have it. As T$ stated earlier, I don't drink the Kool Aide.......

 

I don't have the money to spend on something like that (nor likely ever will), but I'm not about to tell those who do how to spend their money. For the richest of the rich a couple thousand is an hours worth of work. They lose more money when they have to take time off for a doctor's appointment (they are probably making money regardless, but just to put things in perspective).

 

Wouldn't be top pop 7 years later if it were so trivial

 

surprise:

I agreed 100%

junk is junk and will never change

 

Why not just add the Redbook and Blue book values together, then divide by two I n order to get a good value for your coins. This assumes you are using the most. Current version of each book. What's wrong with evaluating a coins value my way?

 

My thought is a coin is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. That rest are just guides.