Yeah, it is, in different areas. But within specific areas it's quite similar. Like in these 2 pics. In this one, the bottom half of the pic, all those grooves are pretty similar. https://www.cointalk.com/attachments/img_6775-jpg.613062/ Same kinda thing in the upper half of this pic. https://www.cointalk.com/attachments/img_6776-jpg.613061/ Your other 2 pics show more the kind of thing you normally see in a woodie, wild variation and irregularity. https://www.cointalk.com/attachments/img_6774-jpg.613060/ But even down along the bottom edge of this pic, from the C and over and across the oak leaves, you see another area of consistency. https://www.cointalk.com/attachments/img_6773-jpg.613059/ You don't normally see that kinda stuff in woodies.
Doug he forgot to say you swirl the ice cream and Hershey's syrup with a depth calibrated hair comb to get what you see. Rather like a milling router pattern more than swirled ice cream, but you know he has to be right. ( no emoji). Insider, who made this artifact and did you see it done? Thanks.
Ronald Mc Donald of course. No, I imagined how I could describe what happens using an ice cream example. Big Money would kill me for wasting food and taking up room in her freezer. Yogurt should work too. I have seen the marbled paper made and even tried it once for myself.
Without going back and looking it for it I think he answered that already. He can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think he said he got the coin just as we see it now. But moving on, this is what I was talking about Insider. I know they can come in all designs, but when you see an Indian woodie this is kinda what most of them look like. (I'm embedding the links for these pics.) Now I don't know how any of those would turn out if we etched them with acid but I don't think they'd turn out quite like the one that started this thread did. The acid would almost certainly eat away the impurities or "dirty metal" first before attacking the copper. But I think you'd see great variation in the width and depth just like you see in the coins. And that's what has me puzzled about the other one. Now back to another subject I said I'd get back too, the coin I posted a pic of. This one - As I said before, when this coin was posted in the forum many believed or at least commented that it was a genuine woodie. Me, I was skeptical, I thought it was a "made" woodie. Faked in other words. So the member who owned the coin sent it to me to play with - and hopefully find out. And I did. My contention was that if I was correct and dipped the coin that the stripes would disappear. If I was wrong they wouldn't, because the stripes just wouldn't be on the surface as they would if it was "made". Because on a genuine woodie the impurities would at least be down into the coin, if not go all the way through it and be visible on the other side as well, and in the same basic pattern and directions. And uh by the way, the other side of this coin was plain. So anyway, I dipped the coin but I only dipped half of it. A 1 second dip in straight Tarn-X, I figured if you're gonna do it ya might as well go all the way. Well to my surprise the Tarn-X didn't quite do it. It got rid of some of the stripes, just not all of them, as you can see on the left side. I was kinda stumped because I figured straight Tarn-X would strong enough to remove any marker or whatever was used to make the lines, assuming they were "made". When it didn't, on the right side I decided to play some more. So I took a pencil eraser and I rubbed the area just above the date and just below the date. You can make out the traces of that in the pictures. And I left a little bit of them above so you could see they were still there in the dipped portion just like on the left side. And yup, the pencil eraser did the trick, the lines disappeared with nary a trace. So I was convinced, this was indeed a "made" woodie. Because with a real woodie that just wouldn't happen, couldn't happen. Oh, one last thing, of course there weren't any grooves left behind from the impurities being eaten away by the acid either. Of course there wouldn't be because the lines were just on the surface. Had it been genuine, there almost certainly would have been grooves. Now, why did I think it was fake to begin with, same reason as mentioned previously in this thread - the lines were too straight and regular - almost uniform. And besides that I had seen many, many similar coins over the years. And they were almost always sold as genuine woodies to somebody. And to show what I'm talking about I went looking and dug up some pics of coins similar to the one I posted. Anyone who looks can find a lot of these. And I believe they too are "made" woodies. So for those who don't know, when you see coins like these, be skeptical. And yeah sometimes they have corresponding lines on the opposite side - the people who make 'em get smarter as they make 'em. Could I be wrong ? Yeah I 'spose. But I sure wasn't with the other one, and I'd bet if I did the same thing to coins that looked like these - they'd turn out the same way. One last question. In another thread, and I can't recall who, somebody said that acetone would remove magic marker (a Sharpie) from a coin. Well I don't know, I never tried. But I know Tarn-X sure as heck didn't, and the Tarn-X even took some of the metal away - where the lines were too. So if it couldn't remove them, how could acetone ? Honest question.
Tarn-X would take them away if you scrubbed enough, because it's got clay (and acids, buffers, and surfactants), according to its MSDS. What it apparently doesn't have is a nonpolar solvent to take away the organic-gunk ink a Sharpie leaves behind. Here's a story of a similar process: In the old days when I first got into electronics, it was common to hand-make your own printed circuit boards -- a board with copper lines on it to serve as connections. You'd start with a plastic board with a copper layer on one side. You would draw the pattern for your circuit onto the copper layer with a "resist pen", essentially a very goopy Sharpie. Once that dried, you'd dip the board into a strong solution of ferric chloride (aka Nic-A-Date). That ferric chloride would dissolve the copper, without affecting the resist pen marks, nor the copper under them. When it was done, you'd rinse the board thoroughly, dry it, and then remove the resist. I think I used rubbing alcohol (acetone would have attacked the board), but it was also acceptable to just sand off the resist. If you didn't draw heavily enough with the resist pen, the etchant would attack the copper underneath it, but it still wouldn't affect the resist itself. (If you left it in long enough to etch away the copper underneath completely, the resist would float off, because there was nothing left for it to be attached to.) The resist is essentially plastic bits and pigment; it doesn't care about acids. The behavior you've described on that Lincoln seems consistent with what I've seen on circuit boards.
well, you have to keep in mind who should be having fun, but yes, you are playing very nicely! The difference between here and your grading classes is that people in this forum didn't sign up for a class, and therefore any teaching methods should be ones that are not too distressing for them.