Can I conserve/clean this properly?

I have done it before with a 1892 barber half. And it CAC'd. But I understand this is an older coin and a different coin...

 

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Is it real?

 

Absolutely genuine. O-116 50/00 variety.

 

I just read an old thread about this, and I don't think I'll try it with this coin.

 

Well, you've been warned by multiple people who know what they're talking about. The pics are good enough to assess that you should not mess with it at all. Its too far gone and too circulated for any attempt at conservation to be successful. Don't know why you're being so stubborn. Kill the coin or leave it alone, your choice I guess but it will never be a $1k coin and more than likely you will diminish its current value.

 

Is the coin already "dead?" That's what I want to know. And if so, how much more could I kill it, I wonder. Maybe I'll do nothing if it's turned to corrosion. But we shall see. Perhaps you all are correct. I'll post pics when I get it.

 

I understand, but for this series I have seen nicer dipped coins with a blast white look and they do not grade. Ones with unattractive or terminal toning do.

 

The Black isn't just a substance on the surface; it is the surface. Once removed there will not be any sort of luster left to garner AU because the original surface will need to be completely removed. Hoping for blast white is dreaming for the stars because what you will uncover after dipping will be a plasticy-looking grey color. I wonder if the area above the eye is as exposed as it is possibly from a previous probe with a q-tip and little dip to see what is underneath.

 

More like undead. It still has some life to it but if you want to stab it in the brain go for it. Mynamespat is correct. The blackness is the surface. There's no way to treat this coin without severely losing eye appeal. I suggest just trying to flip it for a small profit as is. If it was sold without Overton attribution your money can lie there. Not in messing with it.

 

I understand. As far as the lighter areas, I assumed those were the high points showing minor circulation.

 

The black is the surface and you will only be able to remove it once you remove the entire layer of metal. You have been warned by others, so once you ruin the coin it will be your own fault. It will take most of the value away from the coin.

 

Why not send it to NCS?

 

Yeah, I bought it unattributed but knew what it was, which is why I had to have it. I once sold one in AU53 for $1100.

 

If I decide to attempt it after studying it in hand, then yes, I take responsibility for whatever happens. I didn't start the thread to find someone else to blame, after all.

 

It's your coin, you can do whatever you want with it.

 

This is somewhat true, however, as knowledgeable collectors it is our responsibility to preserve all the coins in our collection for the next temporary owner(s). Our coins will not be ours to the end of time.

 

Yes. Now how to "preserve" this one.... hmm.

 

I'd say, from an economic point of view, it depends on what you paid for it. If you accidentally ruin it but can still at least break even, then by all means.
SO if you paid $100 and muck it up, you can still deffos get your $100 back.
But if you paid $800 hoping to sell for $1000, and you muck it up, you might have trouble not losing money.

 

I ponied up $225 for it. So XF45 retail, without a premium for the variety.

 

In my experience buying a problem coin in hopes of turning it into a straight grade usually doesnt work out. You end up wasting more time n resouces than if you just looked for a nice problem free piece.

As far as your question i dont believe there is any proper way to fix this coin.