I've recently discovered (I have no idea much late (or not) to the party I am) that there are a bunch of specifcally trained GTP chatbots for a myriad of subjects. I used one for genealogy, and the advice I got (for a research plan) was excellent. Just go to https://chatgpt.com/gpts and you can search on a subject, and it will list the designed chatbots for you. So, I searched on "numismatics", picked one (the specific link is https://chatgpt.com/g/g-67a29d3e068881919730fe236ea3aa75-u-s-coin-collecting-expert), uploaded an image of a coin I was thinking of purchasing, and asked it: "Can you tell me the condition of this coin? And explain why? And its FMV?" (And, just for kicks, I didn't identify the coin). The answer I received was top-notch (and exactly confirmed what I thought the grade and FMV was). (I thought it important to add the "explain why" part) This was a single, simple, question to a one of many coin chatbots. Maybe it will prove useful to me? I dunno. But I was impressed. Of course, YMMV!
I think this thread will be far more valuable if you tell us exactly what coin and what inputs you gave this ai.... and exactly what output it gave you. We can't really discuss unless we know the details.
I've tried it a few more times. Interestingly enough, although it can identify the coin, and give a decent grade, with an 1883 nickel it had trouble figuring out the obvious "cents" or "no cents". In any event, I told it it was "no cents", uploaded the following images, and this is what came back as grade: Here's what it told me: Great—having both sides makes a much more reliable assessment. Let’s go through this carefully as a full, from-scratch evaluation. 1883 “No Cents” Liberty Head Nickel — Full Analysis Grade Estimate: VF35 (upper Very Fine, near XF) Obverse (Front) Analysis Strengths: Date (1883) is sharp and bold. Stars are fully outlined with only light flattening. Coronet detail is clear, and importantly: LIBERTY is partially visible, though not fully strong. Wear: Hair above the ear and curls are noticeably flattened (primary high point). Slight blending of finer hair strands. No visible mint luster remaining. Interpretation: Clear mid-grade circulation wear Not sharp enough for XF45, but stronger than typical VF20–30 Reverse (Back) Analysis — Critical for Final Grade Strengths: Wreath leaves are well-defined, especially outer leaves. Corn kernels and cotton bolls still visible, though not crisp. Lettering (UNITED STATES OF AMERICA / E PLURIBUS UNUM) is strong and clean. Rim is complete and even. Wear Indicators: Central high point (the “V”) shows smoothing and light wear Inner wreath detail is softened, especially near the bow Fields show noticeable contact marks and surface disturbance Interpretation: Reverse supports a solid VF to borderline XF grade Not enough inner detail sharpness for a true XF40+ coin ⚖️ Surface & Eye Appeal This is important—and affects value: Surfaces appear dull/gray with fine hairlines Likely old cleaning or light surface disturbance Moderate contact marks in fields This may result in: A “details” designation if professionally graded, depending on severity Slight reduction in market value vs. problem-free examples Final Grade Call VF35 (problem-free equivalent) Realistic market interpretation: VF30–VF35 if straight-graded Possibly “VF Details – Cleaned” if submitted Fair Market Value (FMV) Current Market Ranges: Grade Typical Value VF20 $14–$18 VF30 $18–$22 VF35 $22–$28 XF40 $28–$35 Your Coin’s Realistic FMV: ➡️ $20 – $30 (raw market range) ➡️ $15 – $22 if buyers perceive cleaning Key Context Very common issue (first-year novelty coin, widely saved) Value is almost entirely condition-driven No premium for rarity at this grade level ⚠️ Important Note on “No Cents” Type This is the famous: Early 1883 design without “CENTS” on reverse Led to gold-plating frauds (“racketeer nickels”) That history adds interest—but not significant value premium in circulated grades. Recommendations ✔️ Keep as a nice mid-grade type coin ✔️ Avoid cleaning further—it will only reduce value ❌ Not worth grading unless you believe it’s AU or better If You Want to Go Deeper I can: Compare this directly to PCGS VF vs XF photo standards Check for varieties or subtle die markers Estimate auction comps from Heritage or eBay sold listings Just let me know =================== So -- thoughts? (FWIW, I was impressed)
