• Your Biggest Coin Photography Frustrations?

Do you have any example images of the problems, or do you delete them?

 

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I'd love to see a finished shot taken with the setup- two lights above and one below the glass. I'm curious how all of that interreacts with the glass plate. When you position the glass plate, do you have a specific outcome in mind?

 

While cameras still perform this function, most consumers find such knowledge largely useless in the digital age of algorithms and instant review. It was invaluable during the film era when shooting 'blind," (I'm aging myself), but thankfully it's almost irrelevant now. Personally, when adjusting white balance, I find the variables introduced by using a grey card—such as its placement, angle, lighting, and card type—are unnecessary, even with coins. Grey cards can also fade over time due to exposure. It's quicker, simpler, and more precise to know the light's colour temperature and set the camera accordingly. In the OP, I mentioned sharing how professional photographers address problems, and this is a good example. Professionals aiming for accurate colour don't use lights with unknown or mixed colour temperatures.

 

Here is a "staight on shot" and an angle shot.



The coin does display this luster when you see it in person.



Here is another.





Part of the design on this piece is dark because the cartwheel luster takes over the automatic exposure.



I delete the really bad pictures with slab window reflection issues, but you can see some of it in the right corner of this photo of a Proof 1913 dime. You can get these in the middle of the picture, if you don't play with the light source.

 

Since my main focus is in toned coins, primarily copper, the ultimate goal is bringing out color. I would need to look through the photos to find them. I have some organization but with each coin I haven’t separated the axial type photos with the traditional style. One that I have on hand is a 1914 MPL. Overall I like the result. With the traditional setup I wasn’t able to pick up any of the green obverse or red on the reverse. One thing I had to do was to have a much thinner angle on the axial glass. I did manipulate it to several different position before the color was what I was looking for. The result wasn’t perfect, but for my needs I was happy.
First photo is the TrueView, 2nd is my traditional and bottom is the axial.