While not an overly expensive coin, it’s still nice to be able to find and make more top pops. 1969-P MS64BN now pop 3
Pretty coin. Congrats on the top pop. TrueView looks a little out of focus? Or is it just my imagination? (I know I have had similar problems recently with TrueViews).
Beautiful toning on that coin, don't get me wrong. I think the pictures are probably tailored to show the color at the expense of the sharpness. Calling this a Top Pop, however... seems a little fishy. Sure, it may be among the highest graded BN cents for the year (NGC has 2 higher)... but that's because who in their right mind is going to submit a BN or RB 64-65 cent? Surely you wouldn't submit unless it is a lock 66RD (which still isn't worth anything), or a 67RD! You're a top pop on what would be a $1 coin if it weren't for the toning.
Who in their right mind? How about me since I am building a registry of BN toned coins built out of the cheapest possible coins I find on eBay. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, no? And to think who would pay money for these? I sold this for $200 and it cost less than $3. At the time I also made the first AU58+ BN memorial which was in the same $3 album that sold for moon money. Hell, I’d rather buy a $3000 imported German made HK SP5K PDW made on the same assembly lines as the famous MP5 than spend $3000 on a coin, but that’s just me and these minuscule low grade coins pay for it.
I think you misunderstood my post, Blackberry. Your coins are beautiful. I think my point was, the vast majority of people would never submit coins like this, because for almost all 64BNs, they aren't worth it. I totally understand why you're submitting, because nobody is going to pay moon money for a raw coin like this. I'm not arguing with your strategy, it is clearly working for you. I'm just saying that calling this a "top pop" for a 64BN is a bit weird. The census is distorted because people aren't generally going to submit this type of coin.
In many areas of photography, motion can force a compromise in sharpness—think of fast-moving subjects or quick “grab shots.” But coins don’t move. In a controlled, static environment, the only factor that should limit sharpness of a coin photo is encapsulation or, if using axial lighting, the quality of the glass. (Assuming the camera and lens are accurate.) With the TrueViews shown above, there was no intentional trade-off—sharpness wasn’t sacrificed to enhance color. The images were simply out of focus. Likely because focus isn’t checked on every coin. The system might be calibrated once a day, an hour, or even once per shift, and then a preset setup is used. They allow only seconds per coin while coins are run through. This normally works well, but if the focus drifts, every coin afterward will likely suffer until the next calibration. Fortunately, I don't photograph coins on an industrial scale like PCGS, and I take the time to focus every image.
Thanks for the perspective, Denis. Very much appreciated. I guess I was giving them the benefit of the doubt.
I've had several true views a bit of of focus. I simply edit them with a photo editor and sharpen them a touch, usually with decent results. As far as the whole top pop scenario, I have MANY top pop coins, but I'm a world collector. I'll point out that the majority are top pops because I submitted them myself and they are the single graded example. So, I have a VF 35 coin that's top pop (which I threw in because I liked it). I don't care much about that, I just like to have my personal collection graded. It also helps when I've sold pieces. Graded coins sell easier in my experience. I've probably got several coins that many would say weren't worth getting graded, but I promise it's not the worst thing I've ever spent money on!