Proper acetone procedure

In case you missed it, PVC is not a problem. It is the phthalates. Yes, heat, water et al accelerate the reaction, but unless you live in Sahara, it will decompose to HCl and it will probably do so in the Sahara. There are no if in that sentence.

Now you just heard the same thing from 2 chemists and a chemical engineer. You can believe it or not. It is up to you.

 

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This forum is about coins not chemistry. You missed my last paragraph, there is noting to lose. If the coin has PVC problems it probably doesn't have any value. So giving it a bath (or two) in acetone is a no lose proposition. If it cleans the coin, you've got a collectable coin, if it doesn't or reveals acid etching, you're back to where you started, a coin with little or no value. The acetone doesn't react with the coins metal, so TPGs are okay with it, I've submitted coins that I've given an acetone bath and the TPGs have not labeled it altered surfaces, they went ahead and graded it. I've never tried acetone on a Lincoln Cent so I don't know the reaction with a copper coin, I'll try it on a pocket change coin to see what happens.

 

Thanks to good old HCl from the plasticizers, that coin has bronze disease.

 

Sigh.... After washing the clad coins just in soapy water, they were GOLD. I left them in the soapy water about 30 minutes. (The silver coins were fine.) I was distraught. I then saw the Tarnex bottle....
Next time I think I will seek out a professional coin cleaner. I never thought soapy water would ruin a coin.
Sighhhhhhh and a tear

 

The soap and water didn't kill the coin, although - if and only if the work was visible - it would have reduced the value. It's the Tarnex which should have stayed under the sink.

Cleaning coins is an iffy proposition which is discussed to death and then (rightly) repeated. Originality of surfaces is highly prized in numismatics, and cleaning is an operation which takes away that originality. The dirty little secret is, if the market is willing to overlook whatever's been done to the coin and still consider it original (reference made to the high percentage of extant Morgan Dollars which have been dipped), it's still "original." The devil is in the details - learning how a coin "ought" to look, and what can and can't be done to one without altering the look.

 

I can try and post pics but I am painting my office and simply put, everything is everywhere (Coins included)
However, on a side note, I have tried to post a question with pictures before and was unable to do so. I was able to post a question but had to address it to somebody in particular, to which I just picked somebody's name that I could recall. Then I tried to get my pictures, which were in CoinTalk to attach. (pictures were taken under my microscope that I got for Christmas (early) that I loaded onto my computer). I just could not do it and my husband couldn't do it either. I never saw the post, and I never saw the pictures. I love reading all the articles on Cointalk, but I feel it is somewhat not user-friendly to post a question on. I even sent an email to the host of this site, but never saw a response in my email box. Obviously I'm missing the "magic touch" in more ways than one!

 

Please don't take this as an attack, but this site is relatively easy to post images on, as they go. Many sites require you to host the images elsewhere, but to post them here you actually send the image to CT and it's hosted on their servers. It's different, but easy once you've got the procedure down. There must be a vital step in the process that you're missing. So, start yourself a thread regarding the coin (when the paint is dry ), and begin it with the image posting problem. We will be happy to walk you through the process, and we'll figure out where it's breaking down for you.

 

Thank you very much. I will do that. And hopefully soon!

 

And chemistry does affect coins. BTW, I must have missed where someone said not to give acetone a try... It's ALWAYS worthwhile to try and save a coin.

 

Of course chemistry effects coins, I just felt that the discussion had strayed to far from the original post asking about using acetone on coins. The only chemical I ever use on coins is acetone if I detect a film of PVC, normally from an old flip, on a coin. Acetone doesn't effect the metal of a coin (I was told it does effect copper) and TPGs don't body bag a coin treated with acetone. I'm speaking from experience, I've treated coins with acetone, sent them to a TPG and not had a problem. If a coin has a film of PVC on it is probably worthless, so I feel there is nothing to lose trying a bath or two of acetone. If it works- winner, if it doesn't nothing lost.

Enough said on thee topic, this will be my last post on it, I hope the newbie who asked the original question about uing acetone was able to weed out an answer from this tread.

 

I hope so too since it is a 2011 thread...

 

The original post was five years ago. We can do what we want with the thread now.

 

I know that this is an old thread, but it's a goodie. Anyway, I have a few questions that are still lingering after I've read all of the different threads and sites on using acetone and xylene. I hope to get answers on these before I try out the xylene I purchased:


+ What happens when a coin of any metal composition (silver, copper, etc.) are soaked for over 24 hours? Or, why is it bad?

+ Does xylene have worse fumes than acetone?
I haven't had any issues using acetone indoors and the fumes practically smell the same as nail polish remover. Does xylene really necessitate outdoor use in the same sense as acetone? I understand that xylene and acetone are flammable and toxic if ingested, but apart from that, can I simply pour xylene in a glass jar while indoors, place the copper coins in, and seal the lid tight?

+ Is it bad to bathe a coin in xylene for more than 24 hours? For sake of argument, what if it's bathed for a week? Same idea as acetone, or worse?

Thanks in advance!

 

The only reason 24 hour soak in acetone might be bad would be acetone forms an acid with prolonged exposure to air. However, you use the acetone to dissolve organics. That pretty much occurs in the first minute of the soak.

I guess xylene fumes are worse than acetone, but xylene is orders of magnitude less volatile than acetone. Yes, acetone smells like nail polish remover - because that is what nail polish remover is. Personally, I would not bother taking either outside so long as I am using small quantities. Yes, both can be stored in glass jars, but you will likely have problems with the lid (rubber seal). Treat them like gasoline.

I know of no reason xylene would hurt a coin in most any time frame. Again, it is used only to dissolve organics which pretty much occurs in the first minute. I doubt more than an hour gains you anything.

 

I have a bottle of 100% acetone and it came in a plastic bottle with a plastic cap. I've had it for sometime and it has not leaked, eaten through the plastic, etc. I'm not posting this to be smart, but to let people know the facts. The warning on the bottle states, "extremely flammable and vapors may ignite", that's why it is suggested that is should be used in a well ventilated area. I use it in the bathroom with the exhaust fan on. That makes it easy to rinse the coin after using the acetone and helps with the fumes.

I guess this thread is still about acetone.

 

I'm organic... can I touch it?

I touch 100% acetone directly when using it for my coins all the time and it doesn't do anything bad to me - what about xylene, is it harmful?

 

24 hours is a general recommendation to avoid the possibility of striping/altering the patina. It depends on the coin and the metal. I've soaked coins for a week or longer but, like I said, it depends.

Xylene is far less obnoxious and has less vapor than acetone. I use it indoors without a fan or anything all the time. Of course, I use it in a sealed glass bottle and I recommend all solvents be used as such.

 

No, xylene is safe unless you huff, drink or bathe in it. I get acetone and xylene on my skin frequently, they will dry the skin, but that's it.

 

Certain plastics are resistant to acetone, others, not so much....they literally melt.