I've always wanted a nice example of a buffalo nickle. I simply don't know anything about them, including the prices. What should I expect to pay for something like this?
https://coinvalues.com/buffalo-nickel/1937 on most coin sale websites they sell for around $40 in that condition, but I would wait for other replies first.
1937 is a common date, and fairly common even in high end condition. In other words, don't despair if you miss out on one, another will come along.
@Camreno , is this coin listed at ACSB? I ask because I used to participate in some of the blind auctions that ACSB ran about 10 years ago. Let me know before you consider placing a bid. Chris
Its on eBay. I don't care about a common date, I would just love a high grade buffalo. What do you think this one would grade at? Once I get some time I'll brush up on my buffalo grading skills.
. You should ONLY purchase one in a PCGS, NGC, ICG, or ANACS slab because you don't know anything (your words not mine) about them! You should be able to find a commond date 63 to 64 for under $50. If you buy an ungraded example like the one you imaged you may as well burn your money UNLESS you get very, very lucky. Your "best" Buffalo is corroded. It needs conservation.
I'll hazard a guess on the grade. MS64. That's adjusted for my recent experiences wherein I was pleasantly surprised by some grades I got on Buffs.
Those color striations are seen fairly regularly on mid-teens Buffs. My 1915 in my Dansco looks like it may have come from the same strip.
There are a lot of very nice 1938-D Buffalos that you can get at a reasonable price in high mint state condition.
Pretty well-struck, relatively unmarred, I tend to agree with Kurt at MS64. A dealer who usually sets asking prices fairly high has three different examples of this coin listed at Collectors Corner in PCGS MS64 for $35 each. Raw, I'm not paying over $25 for it, although - and this is a nice teaching point - the coin you've posted is a strike superior to all of them. Why do I say that?
It looks like there may be some "green slime" on the reverse (and maybe a little by the LIBERTY on the obv). If it's PVC residue, it's acidic and will damage the coin
Without the ability to tilt it, and see how the light changes, I'll agree there COULD BE some PVC slime, but it also might be a less than uniform mix of metals. Even cents from that era can show it. "Whaadya want? It's technology over 100 years old!" If that 1915 were at an auction, and I was looking for one, I'd whip out the "big glass".
Just saying...plenty of evidence visible as is. You should not need to tilt it. Green slime on nickel is BAD! See how it fills the recessed parts of the design at the rear of the Bison? The surface also appears "eaten away" through the center of the body.
