I have a small set of different kinds of coins to sell and do not know how. To start with I sorted the first set into pennies and started looking them up. It seems there are many of these out there (ebay for instance) and I really do not want to go that route. My question - what options are there to sell a list such as this? Thanks for any suggestions! 1886 0.01 Canada 1835 0.01 US . Drilled 1856 0.01 US worn 1842 0.01 US Drilled Indian Head Pennies 1888 1889 1890 2 1893 1901 1905 1903 1907 1908 1902 0.05 v nickel 1883 0.01 NEDERLANDS 1920 0.01 Canada 1797 0.01 g 1880 0.01 Newfoundland CA 1914 0.01 Canada
looks like they are common coins, and you state worn drilled. Not really worth much, if you were to put them on ebay, you would get fair market value or more as long as you have good photos. Consider passing them down to a relative that has coin collecting interest. What is the 1797? that might have some value
condition is everything in helping estimate value, so just giving a date no one can give accurate values. Post some pictures and welcome to the forums
Probably worth a reminder here that it's fine to ask general questions about value, but actual offers to buy or sell need to stay in the Advertising forums or in private messages (click a poster's username, then click the Start a Conversation link in the popup).
Like anything else it appears I need to spend $ just to take images properly! It is very challenging to get good shots. at this rate it will take a while to get them all. This is what I have for the 1797 penny. Pretty cool to be holding something that Mr Washington, Adams or Jefferson could have used! What is it worth?
http://www.coinfacts.com/large_cent...797_large_cents/1797_large_cent_varieties.htm There are many varieties of your coin, I'm sure an expert in this series will be along to help.
Fun. There's a smoking gun here which I won't mention until last, because it doesn't show up as plainly on all of them. The Stemless Reverse narrows things down nicely to (if I have it right) four varieties: S-131, 132, 133 and 143. 143 is eliminated because of the position of the 7 in the date and the leaves near the D in UNITED, and I think we can eliminate 132 because of the position of the 7 also. That leaves us with 131 and 133. Now, S-131 and S-133 differ in the relationship of the 1 and first 7 in the date. S-131's 1 is somewhat closer to the hair curl, and the 7's top bar is noticeably higher than it. S-133's 1 is close to the hair, and the 7 is closer to "where you'd expect it" in relation. It also extends lower than S-131's 7, but that's not visible here. S-131's second 7 is a bit more "parallel" to the bust line; S-133's left peak on the 7 is further away, more tilted. Comparing the two, the date here more closely resemble's S-131, so that's what we call it. Now, the smoking gun: the plain die break behind the hair ribbon, which immediately identifies it as S-131 anyways. All the above was just to try to illustrate the attribution process, because you don't always get a smoking gun pickup when attributing.
It's a familiar old friend in the S-131. If you look behind the hair ribbons, there is a die break (actually two) that fill in much like a CUD between the Minting of the S-229 and S-230. It shares the obverse with those and also a unique 1797 NC-8 (that reverse is shared with the S-143) which is also stemless. But the leaf at the base of the upright of (E)D confirm it's S-131 attribution. This is an R2+ or relatively common variety, though it has some extra appeal because it's stemless. It appears to have most of the legends and most of the dentils which are commonly worn off in lowest grades. Without seeing it in hand, I suspect somewhere between an AG3 for the most conservative and critical graders and VG10 for the least critical and owner adjustment. The funny thing about grading is that whether you grade conservatively or liberally, knowledgeable buyers and sellers usually find price easier to agree with than grade. The problem comes in with those less knowledgeable failing to understand the differences in grading and the dramatic effect condition has on value. This is particularly true with TPG (Third Party Graded) coins which are DETAIL graded. Treating them as equal in value by simply looking at a price guide designed for problem free coins leaves the uninitiated confused and suspicious. While not perfect, If you don't have the time or desire to do this, then eBay or some other low cost auction at least gets those knowledgeable to bid against each other to get you the best chance of real value. It's not perfect, but it's probably the best you can do without study. But if you go that route, use the best photos you can make or get.
Not to me, but maybe somebody. I stick to rare varieties or at least rare die states unless it's a very high grade coin with a problem that drops the price significantly. I'd probably go no higher than $50 myself and maybe not that much. A lot has to do with condition as well as grade and the photo is a bit too dark for me to take a chance. Now if it were an R5 or higher, I'd go well beyond that. If it were an R4+, then probably. But not lower. But that's me and I definitely do not meet the criteria for a typical buyer.
This is the kind I go for in 1797. Rare and damaged. This is my 1797 NC-5 R6 (19-24 known) It's the only coin I've ever won at a Heritage Auction.
