How To Tell If A Coin Is PF70

Well I have been working my system for over 2 years.
I don't use any magnification.
I close one eye and tilt the coin in the halogen light to look at the frost.
If you look at the PF69 you will see little spots in the frost, a PF70 will not have those spots.


Practice, practice and some more practice is needed.
Good Luck!!

 

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I totally agree with cloudsweeper

 

Guessing.

At least, that is what a grader has told me. They set aside a "quota" of MS-70's and grade the rest MS-69, unless there are obvious issues. NGC has a higher quota, so PCGS has the illusion of being the stricter grading service.

 

Please note that this thread had been dormant since August 2009, until a new member (accidentally?) rang the doorbell and ran away.

 

Some people claim the they can see the difference between a PF-69 and a PF-70. To be totally honest, I have been collecting coins for many years, own both 69s and 70s, and would be hard pressed to tell the difference. Perhaps I might catch a flaw with a 10x loupe, but certainly not just by eye. I am being totally honest.

 

here's what I have been told.

at 10x, there's no visible difference between 69 and 70.

at 15x, there are NO visible defects on the 70 coin, whereas, a 69 may have one (some)

 

Shame on me. I usually notice that...

 

Interesting...I did not know that. I have never owned a coin grade a 70 anyway. Personally, if I can't tell the difference at 1x...I don't care.

 

And of course since the TPG graders as a general rule usually don't go higher than 5X (some will go 7X) . . .

 

The proven method is to observe the guidance given in these posts, you are looking for a flawless coin with a good strike. However, you also have to send it off to the grading service of your choice, cross all fingers, legs, arms and toes. Keep them crossed each and every day until your coins are returned lol.

 

Doesn't matter if it is a 69 or 70 coin the owner will be in for a rude awakening when he/she decides to sell.

 

I know what you mean. If there is a bubble present in the hobby it's the way we value MS levels. Putting a hard number on a subjective opinion and then separating the tiers by hundreds of dollars seems like a recipe for disaster!
I only buy coins that I like the look or the history of and "try" not to pay more than AU price. Of course others will have different opinions so to each his own

 

What you say is wiser than you know. I believe that there is a bubble of sorts and when it goes, a lot of wealth is going to evaporate