Morgan GSA vs non-GSA

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by jrs146, Sep 26, 2016.

  1. Paddy54

    Paddy54 Well-Known Member

    Great attitude, and a nice 1881 cc btw! Experience is learned daily . I've been in the food business for 50 years!
    And every day I learn something new . Welcome aboard .
     
    Dave Waterstraat likes this.
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  3. Santinidollar

    Santinidollar Supporter! Supporter

    I like your choice a great deal!
     
  4. cpm9ball

    cpm9ball CANNOT RE-MEMBER

    The 80CC is much more expensive regardless of the VAM. The 82-84CC's are the most common and inexpensive.

    Chris
     
  5. jtlee321

    jtlee321 Well-Known Member

    I really like that NGC non-GSA. It really looks nice.

     
  6. jrs146

    jrs146 Active Member

    Maybe I'll have to make the 79' next. First though I gotta read through my guide to Morgan book. I keep looking at all these other posts on this forum and my head is spinning. I'm wondering if it's best to stick to one specific category first. Otherwise this can get a little intimidating. So much to learn! Wish I had started this as a kid when I had more time (although no money, pun intended)


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  7. fish4uinmd

    fish4uinmd Well-Known Member

    Paddy is giving you excellent advice...and has helped me with advice several times.
    That being said, the most recent price I have on the 81CC ms65 gsa with box and coa was 759.00
     
  8. fish4uinmd

    fish4uinmd Well-Known Member

    Paddy,
    But first, you have to know where the fish ARE! And, NO, a $25 rig will not catch as many fish as the $100 rig...so, shut up and fish! LOL
     
    Paddy54 likes this.
  9. fish4uinmd

    fish4uinmd Well-Known Member

    I think you did well...the rev looks almost DM. (didn't see this until after the comments about Paddy's advice)
     
  10. jrs146

    jrs146 Active Member

    Does DM stand for Deep Mirror?


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  11. Cascade

    Cascade CAC Variety Nerd

    Yes. However it's not. Not even PL (proof like) the eagle does have a cameo frost and I'd say your coin is a few strikes away from proof like but it's quite easy to tell there are no mirrored fields still. Plus if one side was pl or dmpl ngc would usually give the coin a star.

    As to your choice. Good pick! Better coin for sure and if you're not going for a gsa specific set you chose wisely between the two :)
     
  12. fish4uinmd

    fish4uinmd Well-Known Member

    Yep, BEAUTIFUL CC! Have you checked out the history of the Carson City mint and the infamous (or famous) Comstock Lode?
     
  13. Cascade

    Cascade CAC Variety Nerd

    I'd go with in-famous :D

     
  14. fish4uinmd

    fish4uinmd Well-Known Member

    Great! real bullets!
     
    Cascade likes this.
  15. tradernick

    tradernick Coin Hoarder

    Nice coin. Judging by the pics I'd say you got the better coin, and for a cheaper price. You paid under Greysheet for the coin...very attractive piece and price!
     
  16. jrs146

    jrs146 Active Member

    Thanks!


    Thanks! I'm excited to get it in the mail soon. Could you explain greysheets?


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  17. Paddy54

    Paddy54 Well-Known Member

    Ah you forget Jerry I have fished the Chesapeake and Delaware bays since I was a kid..... besides not my fault you're stuck with a wear house full of Popels pocket fishing rigs. :) "As seen on TV" :)
     
    fish4uinmd likes this.
  18. SuperDave

    SuperDave Free the Cartwheels!

    The "Greysheet" is the Coin Dealer Newsletter, a wholesale pricing aid for coin dealers published for more than 50 years now. It is a wholesale reference, not a retail reference. It contains "Bid" and "Ask" pricing - what dealers are Asking (selling) at wholesale, and what dealers are Bidding (offering) at wholesale - dealer-to-dealer sales - for a given coin. Retail purchasers can estimate a "fair" price by allowing a fair profit margin on those prices, but just like car pricing (nobody seems willing to pay more than dealers are getting the car for from the factory - nobody cares if the dealer profits), the understanding that a profit margin needs to be included is disappearing. You'll hear from more than a few around here who think they're retail numbers.

    Which is why the best way to make a small fortune in dealing coins is to start with a large fortune.
     
  19. jrs146

    jrs146 Active Member

    Thanks for the explanation [emoji106]


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  20. SuperDave

    SuperDave Free the Cartwheels!

    I much prefer disparaging "pricing guides" to praising them, but CDN is a consistent model with a ton of experience and is accurate to the extent that dealers follow its' guidelines. Most do. What it isn't is a retail guide.
     
    jrs146 likes this.
  21. samclemens3991

    samclemens3991 Well-Known Member

    Sorry this is driving me crazy. You are being robbed and you don't even know it. what I am about to say contradicts every coin guru, writer, dealer and any other expert on the planet. They will tell you "Buy the key dates first, this will save you money in the long run and the common dates will always be there." I think this advice ruins more new collectors than anything in the world.
    I have read many numismatic books. Never do they begin,"I discovered Trade dollars and of course purchased an 1885 Trade dollar in deep cameo proof 67." NO. Instead they tell how they bought some coins only to discover they were Chinese fakes and ONLY many chapters later do they tell how "they were thrilled to finally find a deep cameo proof 67 up for auction." So they never take that buy the key coins first crap either.
    What you are doing is gathering some expensive plastic with metal inside. Spoiler alert. The 1881-s is very, very common. Especially in super high grades with dazzling luster and razor sharp strike. Look for them on the internet and you will find hundreds, maybe thousands of them.
    Here is the thing. Even in PCGS 65 holders, if you study enough of them you will learn just what makes a coin a 65. Study harder and you will discover all those coins are actually unique in their own way. Study some more and you will find yourself favoring certain aspects, maybe sharp strike, or a particular type of toning. eventually those common as dirt 81-s coins will tell you what kind of coins you are going to put in your set. No collector says, "Is this the right coin?" They already know because they have put in the due diligence and hard work it takes to build a set of coins that only one person in the world could have built. The common dates are your true teachers, they are just sitting there waiting for you. If you do this you will have a collection of memories. Of the top of your head you will be able to tell the heartbreaks and victories of each coin as if it happened yesterday.You will also truly appreciate those hard won key dates and understand the difference between a bunch of expensive coins and a story you lived out. In my opinion you are set to do as so many have. You will lose interest and wonder why anyone would buy such a common coin as an 81's. the coins you have will have no personal meaning so they will be that much easier to forget about and six months or a year from now you will be doing something else.....
     
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