I started working on a new page on photos to replace the half dozen I already have online. Below is a photo of a simplified but sturdy camera stand. My question is whether this is clear enough to get across the idea. The idea of a stand is to hold the camera steady without vibrations. Wood absorbs vibrations better than metal. The one above has 2x4" construction and is extremely solid. It is not necessary for the stand to be adjustable. Differences in coin sizes can be handled by changing the height of the coin easier than the height of the camera. Shown here are two different CDR spindles. Books placed under them can make smaller adjustments. Also shown is the upgrade in adjustibility offered by a macro focus rail (sold on eBay for not much money). The one on the stand is what is called a 4 way since it allows side to side adjustment as well as up and down. This feature is not needed but I like the fact that the adjustment and locking knobs are on opposite sides for ease of operation. Leaning against the right side upright is a '2 way' which works, is cheaper by $15 or so, but has the lock knob and the adjustment both on the same side. Search "macro focus rail" for current offerings. Prices vary. No camera is shown in this view but this stand will support any point and shoot or DSLR on the market. Those making something like this will want to think a bit about how long to make the uprights (the one shown is 15" tall) according to the camera and lens to be used. The photo also shows a tin can with both ends removed and painted black inside which assists in make a black, black background.
I like that. If I were building it, I'd be concerned about getting everything square enough, and keeping it that way over time (should the wood warp). I've been thinking of something with rod stock and laboratory clamps, or maybe angle iron. I've found that using mirror lockup is usually good enough to take care of most vibration issues, although it may simply be that my standards aren't high enough.
Very nice set-up Doug. Thanks for sharing. I like the black painted can. You did not show the positioning of your lights. I assume they are smallish lights that point at coins from various angles depending on what you want to show. I need to build a stand for the black box I bought, but have not been able to use. Do you feel a vortex when you get too close to the black can?
Very good simple idea without the big bucks. Camera accessories can be quite expensive and this is a great alternative. And with this setup you've got more money in your pocket to buy quite a few more coins. LOVE IT.
@dougsmit , Thank you. Your OP post has now convinced me to move from my Photo Copy Stand to your set up. The explanation is clear, concise, and convincing. (Yes, I have read virtually all of your photography postings and pages). I am below a novice level regarding photography skills. Even though my Nikon D40 is very tolerant of my inept photo capabilities, I believe this will help solve most of my issues. Couple questions: 1) What suggestions besides CD-R spindles can be easily used for the upright coin holders? 2) For the painted can: do you suggest Van Camp's Pork n Beans or Alpo?
Doug, A picture is worth a thousand words and you've just shown what I've been looking to build. The can with the insides painted black solves the background issue brilliantly. I've been using very rough textured water color paper painted black, but sometimes that method doesn't work as well as I would like. Thanks for sharing
First, understand this is not my everyday use rig but one I cobbled together for the purpose of making something others can make with relative ease. I use a rolled up piece of black sheet craft foam held around by a rubber band. I have a steel rod set in a wood block with a short piece of dowel rod on top in place of the CD spindle. I have shown these items here and on pages many times. Most of my photos are out of date because they show a detail like a light that I no longer use so I decided to start over and reinvent the thing. I suggest Vegetarian beans for those watching their diet. Spinach cans can be substituted by muscular sailors (gotta be a certain age to know that reference). I am still working on a good way to shade the background when using the ring light. It is so close to the lens that it sends light down the tube more than I'd prefer. It is a real problem if you drop a coin.
I guess this just confirms I am of that age. Would you like some olive oil to go along with that spinach? Or are you too wimpy? Maybe you're a brute. Sorry Doug. I just couldn't help me self.
I use a variation sometimes with a white lined can (don't recall the brand) and a lower center dowel so that you get some reflection back on to the top of the coin. Just something I play around with for different effects.
Lights are a huge other story. Most people, certainly I, ruin more photos trying to be creative with lights. You just have to move things around and hope you recognize something good when it appears. With experience you can get to what you want faster but no two ancients are alike in the small details of what works best. Here is a photo showing the camera and stand on my back deck on a cloudy day. Below that is the photo taken there using that cloud filtered sunlight. Below is my previous shot indoors with artificial lights. Which looks more like the coin depends on whether you are in my house or in my yard when looking at the coin and how you wiggle it. I prefer my indoor photo but it is far from perfect.
How about a dimmable Ring Light. Is there such a thing? Are you using Halogen Light ?, if so most are Dimmable.
I see now you have your rig outside in the daylight; maybe you wouldn't need artificial light outside.
Many LED rings are dimmable. It allows balancing that light with a directional for some (few) coins. I consider halogens very poor choices due to color balance and heat when there are better choices.