I still seem to have problems getting images of coins to a good standard. Lighting I think is part of the problem. I usually take pictures with a set up like this: On the right is an LED panel and often use another LED to the right. Its okay, I get pictures like this: So thinking about lighting and had a brainwave of sorts. I'm thinking that the lights need to surround the coin rather than just 10:00 - 14:00. The next big thing: So an empty bank CD container with fairy lights. It is round, stable and even comes with a coin support in the middle. I was shocked with my brilliance and set about making it. The results are: Holding a piece of glass over at 45 degrees cuts out some reflection but still not too much better. Back to the drawing board - and if anyone can think of what will improve the CD case idea, please let me know.
1) Luster depiction requires one or two (at most three) single light sources positioned as close to vertical above the coin as possible, shining straight down upon it so light reflects straight from the coin back up at the lens. A little diffusion applied at the light - rather than some generalized "light box" - helps to eliminate washouts. Either way, you want the light to be as close to a point source as possible. 2) All lighting should be placed above the plane of the front of the lens - or shielded from it - to prevent light unrelated to that reflecting from the coin being shone straight into the lens. That latter seriously hinders contrast. 3) Insulate the imaging rig from other light sources, like the too-close computer monitor. That plays havoc with White Balance. That's why I employ gooseneck-style LED lamps, like so: In actual photography (rather than just being arranged to show the rig), those lights will be darn near touching the lens, but at the same relative height as seen here.
Ditto everything Dave said. With your lights coming in so low, consider the angles of light that get to the camera. Any reflection off the fields will of course reflect off at a low angle, not toward the camera, and thus be dark. Any reflection off a device with a relatively flat surface will likewise not go to the camera. The light reflecting in to the camera is mostly the light from the edges of the devices. So you get this really contrasty look that's in your images. On the other hand, the higher the light, and the closer to the lens it is, the more you will have lighting on the fields and devices, which is typically more desireable. Of course it's your photo and what looks good to you might be different to what other folks like. Here's a similar brass coin shot with two lights up high:
+2 on what Dave said. You have to get your light source above the bottom of your lens so that light directly from the bulb does not leak. Isolating your rig will also help, I don't isolate mine but I shoot in a room with no windows and all the lights except those lighting the coin turned off. I still get stray light coming in, but I'm not looking for perfection. I will add, specific light angle is an art. I notice that the more directly perpendicular the light source the better detail and luster I get, but the worse the color is, especially on copper. The lower the light, to a degree, the better the color but the worse the luster. There is no one position that is always best, it takes a little experimentation to get right on each coin, and some post processing for color doesn't hurt. With that said, my general setup is to get the lights as high as possible and fix the color afterwards.
LOL........I've got a setup much like SuperDave, with the two Janscos. The trick to decent results is moving the lights around and taking copious shots. Also, check that white balance and keep it tuned to the temperature of your lamps.
Thanks guys, actually I plan to have an update soon but had these bits to hand and too much time on my hands! I tried so you didn't have to!
Cover the top of your ring light with a hollow circle of black paper - to prevent any of it shining upward into the lens, while letting the lens see through - and then put a Cameo Proof under the lens. I suspect you'll enjoy the result.
