Would anyone here post pics of known fake coins they may have and a real version of the fake to compare?
This would be the longest thread on the Forum if we did it right. Few generalizations exist regarding counterfeits, because they're produced by a vast number of differing methods. For instance, I have this: There's very little about that coin which would help you to identify a fake from any other denomination. A couple things - assuming we discount the ludicrous doubled lettering and stars - could be relevant to other Seated coinage, though: The weakness of the obverse and in the eagle's wings, particularly the left one; the date location (assuming you know where a proper date location for this specific coin is); the letter spacing (assuming it's different than norm for this specific coin).... There's a takeaway from that paragraph. The key to detecting counterfeits has nothing to do with knowing counterfeits, and everything to do with knowing what a "good" coin looks like. If you want to learn about counterfeits, learn what it should look like and then look for what's different. If you wish to discuss one single issue, more specificity is possible.
This would be the longest thread on the Forum if we did it right. Few generalizations exist regarding counterfeits, because they're produced by a vast number of differing methods. For instance, I have this: There's very little about that coin which would help you to identify a fake from any other denomination. A couple things - assuming we discount the ludicrous doubled lettering and stars - could be relevant to other Seated coinage, though: The weakness of the obverse and in the eagle's wings, particularly the left one; the date location (assuming you know where a proper date location for this specific coin is); the letter spacing (assuming it's different than norm for this specific coin).... There's a takeaway from that paragraph. The key to detecting counterfeits has nothing to do with knowing counterfeits, and everything to do with knowing what a "good" coin looks like. If you want to learn about counterfeits, learn what it should look like and then look for what's different. If you wish to discuss one single issue, more specificity is possible.
What SuperDave said is great advice. One thing I guess I could add is that it never hurts to start by inspecting the date on the coin. For some reason a lot of counterfeiters have a hard time with getting the execution of the date right, even if the rest of the coin's lettering is pretty convincing. Comparing the date of the coin in question with that of a known genuine coin (like the ones shown on PCGS's "Coinfacts") is what I do. Keep in mind that just because the date looks good doesn't automatically mean that a coin is genuine, but you can weed out a lot of fakes this way.
Being able to detect a fake is in some ways more important than knowing the characteristics of the real coin the fake is intended to mimic. I think many of us would be trapped by fake foreign coins and fake ancients.
But, IMO, one member should not be able to give one...So if I push best answer, does that just nominate the person and when they get the nomination the other members or moderators can decide or does the person get one? @SD just posted the first and foremost prerequisite for counterfeit detection that was taught in 1973 during an ANA Summer Seminar on counterfeit detection!
This time I need to disagree with you. No matter if we are talking about ancients, tokens, medals, paper money, wampum or foreign coins of any type or era: One thing always holds true: In order to authenticate something you MUST KNOW what the genuine specimen looks like! That is why we taught it that way - it's a universal and undeniable fact. Add to that, you must know what the genuine object looks like when it is circulated, cleaned, altered, toned, or corroded. Think that coved all the bases. The simple reason that many would be trapped by fake foreign coins and ancients is they don't know what they should look like. Fortunately, TPGS's have solved much of this problem for collectors.
Maybe a long time ago. IMO, today the great images on the Heritage site are your best tools; however, the c/f's are getting really good. A professional authenticator MUST know what the microscopic characteristics of the genuine piece should look like. Without this, the average dealer/collector is mostly only able to detect the very crude fakes like the 1845 Half above that is only suitable for a very basic authentication course given to students who know nothing about coins. A good first step is to carefully examine the date and letter design of the type of genuine coins you collect. That alone should help to ID pieces like the coin above. I could; yet WILL NOT post photos of fakes that virtually no one here would be able to detect from just the photo. You would need micrographs of specific areas, and diagnostic characteristics. Some of these coins were previously CERTIFIED as genuine. I recommend anyone interested in counterfeit detection take an ANA Seminar or private instruction by a qualified teacher.
It is my understanding that the ANA was set up because in the 70's around a quarter to a third of the coins on dealers tables were C/f's. Their has definitely been a great service since the 70's to help us with correct Photo's Of genuine strikes from the mint. Anything that gets passed on from one collector to another, could be miss construed. THE BEST WAY TO DETOUR YOURSELF FROM A COUNTERFEIT IS EXPERIENCE. Books, images from reputable sites. Thanks for playing,
SuperDave wrote this in Post#3: The key to detecting counterfeits has nothing to do with knowing counterfeits, and everything to do with knowing what a "good" coin looks like. If you want to learn about counterfeits, learn what it should look like and then look for what's different. IMO, this part (only) of his post should get a best answer.
Why don't you post them. For the benefit of everyone here. The more educated collectors and dealers get the better they are at spotting fakes. And that benefits when whole hobby and business except the counterfeiters
I am all for education but read what I wrote: I could; yet WILL NOT post photos of fakes that virtually no one here would be able to detect from just the photo. You would need micrographs of specific areas, and diagnostic characteristics. @Mainebill I don't know any Professional authenticator who authenticates coins from images sent to a TPGS. Very many of the fakes posted on CT (such as the 1845 above) can be detected by the female secretarial staff at a TPGS when they log in the coins! Therefore, it is a poor use of my limited time to post something that will be of little use. However, why not follow me. Every now and then I post something along the lines you ask for and I promise to post some photos of microscopic diagnostics sometime in the future. But first, I need to ignore one member who considers me an old foolish crybaby and asked me to pay him to answer a simple question. I do not wish to educate him as he is already an "Ex-Pert."
I have a few fakes and real coins to compare them to, but can't post decent photos at the moment. @SuperDave 's post is spot on. The only way you will ever be able to spot a good counterfeit coin, without extensive research, is by training your eye to the real thing. Very seldom do we run accross a coin we want and it stay around long enough for us to research and learn about all it's faults and attributes before it's gone. Do your research and training before you look. If you are quite familiar with the series, as soon as you put the loupe on it, you will know whether what you expect to see is there, or isn't. I see alot of post on here with advice to not buy lowball coins, but instead buy the best you can afford. Lowball coins are great learning tools, they may not ever make you a profit when you sell them, but they will keep you from losing big time on a counterfeit if you study them. Pictures are a tool, I won't say good tool, good tools are in 3D.
What I want to add is to always inspect your coins under magnification. Get to know what real looks like by inspecting as many coins as you can.
True. There's several series that I'm very good at and I can sometimes not pinpoint it but know its wrong. Bust and seated coins and trade dollars I'm very good at. 20th c stuff not so much and of course there's the altered genuine stuff that can be very well done too
