Arresting corrosion on copper?

I've used verdicare and am pleased with it. After a day, I pat it well so it doesn't look so moist when I put it in a holder. Good product

 

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So is Verdicare the replacement for Blue Ribbon which if you have any that has not evaporated works well?

 

Proper storage is the KEY to preventing/controlling corrosion. Even without addressing existing corrosion, you can bring it to a crawl if a coin is properly stored. For such coins I usually recommend an acetone rinse to dehydrate the verdigris followed by immediate storage into an airtight holder.

 

My order just shipped today , cant wait to try it!

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I,m a believer in Verdicare. It works great. Here's a pic of one of my classic head cents. It had the verdigris when I bought it. look above the ribbon. Heres a before and after pic. Nice job BadThad!

 

Oh Goody, the green is gone. VC did a greet job doing what it was designed for. Unfortunately, the coin still has a BLACK CORROSION SPOT! I don't think VC works on that.

 

Yes, but at least its arrested. and wont grow anymore. Take that verdigris!

 

Is there a product that will remove carbon spots?

 

I,ve heard an acetone soak may work if their not too bad

 

Thankyou. Never had any luck with acetone. I was thinking of a product specifically made for carbon spots. I think it would be a real winner.

 

I agree. Would be great

 

Nope, not for us. The coin doctors use lasers but the spot removal can usually be detected using a stereo microscope and the proper lighting IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR any type of surface alteration in the first place. Most dealers/collectors are not. I have heard that only one TPGS employee uses a microscope on virtually every coin he examines.

The color and texture of the coin's surface often can give-away areas on a coin that have been altered.

 

Acetone does not help a corroded surface. Not entirely true. I should have said that acetone will not RESTORE a black corrosion spot on copper.

 

BadThad is of the opinion they're permanent. I have had a very little luck with them on a couple of occasions, but they may not have been the classic chemical problems we refer to as "carbon spots," and the temperatures involved were....high. As in, I was probably flirting with melting the coin completely.

 

Thankyou Insider, SuperDave.

 

Randy Campbell?

 

I have seen Randy Campbell use a stereo microscope to authenticate coins at coin shows. From our conversations, he rarely uses one at work. Randy worked for ANACS and now is at ICG.

Several long time authenticators at TPGS's keep one handy on their desk though. The fact that they have been authenticating coins for decades using a hand lens lessens the need for a higher power examination. Problem is, while they will virtually always be able to detect altered dates and mint marks with a hand lens (if the are attentive); and in cases where something does not look "right," they can take out the scope; state-of-the-art forgeries produced at this minute are slipping past at first, until they are detected. Fortunately, the majority of excellent fakes are detected within a few months at most!

One of the best things about attending ANA Summer classes is the chance to meet, speak with, eat with, and drink with many of the TPGS employees and well-known numismatic researchers. You will learn a lot inside and outside class. I have been many times and can attest to that.

 

@BadThad is basically correct; however, based on experience, that spot (due to its size, mildness, and location) can be rendered undetectable in the hands of a knowledgeable conservation specialist , copper collector , or coin doctor . Chemicals make a better world but they are not the answer to every problem.

Mild Warning: There have be suggestions on coin talk about heating copper coins to remove corrosion spots. IMO, that will not help this coin and is not needed on the OP's coin. Nevertheless, if you decide to try this method to see for yourself how a coin can be ruined if you don't know what you are doing ...