How to Tone Coins

Its unlikely this NJ Copper will ever see a TPG but perhaps in fifty years ... the goal here was to expedite its original toning ... of course part of the reasons is profit seeking ... no different than those gold coins found buried in that can in California. Do we leave them as is or expose them to a finely tuned ultrasonic cleaning process? <BG>.

 

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A better example is ancient coins where most were buried and cleaning is commonplace on most examples.

 

Should the cauliflower be steamed, boiled or sautéed?

 

HE's BACK!!!

Absolutely true, and most of the OP is worthless and so....1950's. Post should read "HOW TO RUIN A COIN"

AMEM! I cannot count the number of experiments I have done (that ruined some coins) while learning some "tricks" and how to detect AT.

Yep! And you would be amazed at how many repairs are missed by both buyers and sellers.

When a coin is "restored" PROPERLY or excellently repaired, it is undetectable to 98 % of you. The TPGS's will detect most repairs and altered surfaces; however, AT and restored copper is another thing entirely. There are well known methods to change a stripped, "pink" copper coin to an undetectable natural brown. It is all done chemically so NO evidence of cleaning is visible!

AMEN!

This technique is so "caveman." I know that some folks can do the job "pink to brown" in two weeks or less that is UNDETECTABLE and...Without seeing the NJ cent - probably better!

 

Uh oh, insider's starting to get "colorful" again

 

But I thought it died this morning

 

Please don't edit my posts. And I respectfully disagree with your answer to my opinion. Once a coin has been cleaned, the surfaces have been altered. This doesn't make the coin less collectable, but it does make it less valuable and detectable to me with the coin in hand.

 

It's hard to lay low and not "brighten up the site."

 

You didn't say "pretty please" so how is this:

There is usually NO ORIGINAL SURFACE ON CIRCULATED COINS. I know you knew that yet, assuming a circulated coin has "original circulated surfaces - worn, not hairlined, etc. There is not a person I know who can detect a chemically "stripped" and restored copper coin (even under magnification as high as 80X - never looked with an electron microscope but someone will some day an publish their findings) IF THE RESTORATION GOT THE COLOR "RIGHT." In fact, getting the restoration correct on a circulated coin is FAR, FAR easier than on a coin with any remaining original mint luster.

 

PS The devil made me add this:

Evidence of both mechanical/chemical cleaning exists in degrees. In my humble and very limited experience on CT, most posters do not understand this. They refer to any coin that has any amount of visible cleaning as "harshly cleaned." It makes me cringe.

 

And that's close enough for me. It's the thought that counts.

 

This coin has full cartwheels, can you tell me what's wrong with it?

 

That's OK. I've been told that ignorance is bliss!

 

It sure does and it's CORRODED and stained too!Thanks for the poster child for a coin not to purchase!

Nice job - NOT. And if any TPGS certified this coin WITHOUT a details label they do not deserve to be in business! Just my opinion.

 

Fluff.

 

Is "fluff" something you know about to ruin large cents like this one? Please let us know...

 

A lot of collectors I meet are perfectionist collectors or who buy in to this mindset that MS 68 is better than MS67 ... we see this now with coin highlights from the major auction houses in Coin World week after week ... so with this type of collector I can see how this will raise the blood pressure ... but for harshly cleaned circulated coins being restored ... and as we have seen my method is prehistoric ... as one commenter can do it it in two weeks in his opinion ... I applaud him ... but with these price differences AT is one thing in the MS range ... but restoring at the circulated level (G-XF) coins to me is a POSITIVE ... if done correctly.

JPL