Should I build a high grade set of Mercury Dimes?

Which is better, 66FB or 67?

 

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Let the coins do the talking, not the label. Look for the highest graded, eye appealing coins you can find. There is no shortage of the dates you reference; do not feel rushed to complete it. Sometimes the hunt can be very enjoyable, and if you are picky, I can almost guarantee that the set will be much more enjoyable to you when it is complete.

A coin collection need not be super expensive to be enjoyable, and I could have fun with $100 coins just as much as I could $1000+ coins. But I would be bored to death with a set of widgets that were thrown together without regard to quality. Quality coins can also be lower graded. If you come across an amazing MS65 with blinding luster, nice toning, and exceptional eye appeal, I would rather have that coin that a dipped-out, common as can be 66 FB or 67.

Bottom line: Collect coins that "speak" to you.

 

I'd ditch the FB ones. Get eye appealing ones, toned, etc. I'd rather get one proof than a set of common ones.

 

That depends on which you like better. That is the only appropriate definition of "better" in numismatics.

 

I know people are telling you to buy what you like but I'm here to tell you that most collectors prefer FB on their high grade later date Mercs. GO WITH FB, when it comes time to sell, you will thank me.

 

I could not agree more with Lehigh. I frequently buy both 66FBs and 67s, but I will take a 66FB over a 67 any day for almost any date/mintmark. Importantly, when buying full band coins, make sure to not only examine the bands, but also the lettering and the hair -- I have seen many a full band coin with weak lettering and soft hair. Conversely, it is true you can find some really nice 67s that just barely miss FB and have incredible lettering and hair. However, you will never get close to FB price when reselling. FBs are really easy to move.

If you cherry-pick sweet 66FBs, you have a good shot at getting an upgrade to 67FB. Here is a 67FB gem that I cherry-picked and it is now 68FB.

 

Build the set that you like.
I have my short set in PCGS Rattlers, now the grade was not too important since I did not know how many rattlers were still available. But it seems like these for the most part stayed in the holder that they were put in when they were sent in for grading. I have the set in both full band and not in full band, but PCGS will only let you list one with that date.
The 1945 P with full bands and in a rattler I have not seen one for sale but someone did PM me and said they had seen one. In any holder I am still looking for one but because of the price I don't think I will ever own one. Some of the top sets have this one included in it.
Maybe I should start a non FB rattler set.
I did find the 45-micro s in both FB and non FB, I thought that was a major find.
Here is a link to my Mercury dime rattler set.
http://www.pcgs.com/SetRegistry/alltimeset.aspx?s=88408

 

I did a short set of 1936-1945 in a capital plastics holder. I tried to get all toners in AU-BU. I wasn't as concerned with FB since I was going more for looks. A graded short set of 40-45 in MS65 should be pretty cheap, and MS66 not much more expensive. If you want to go the route in all FB, that will cost you some more. It all depends on your budget.

 

I don't collect Mercury dimes but I have always thought they are a sharp coin, especially in toned and proof.

 

I owned 2 Mercury proofs at one time which I thoroughly enjoyed. I sold all my graded Mercs and kept on PF67+ proof and a business strike NGC MS68. Graded short set Mercs were my first graded set I assembled.

 

Reread LeHigh96's reply on the previous page.

 

Start with the 16D, buy the best one you can afford then match the set to it.

 

I wouldn't like a set in FR details.

 

It would be a challenge to put together such a set, I think.