Hi all, New to the db and would like some opinions on this 1836 CB10c. I have searched for a similar specimen, but to no avail. Any help/info/opinions will be appreciated. Thanks Obverse photo link: http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/2769/1836pt2cn9.jpg
Hmm, let me do some asking around. Greetings and Welcome to the list. I happen to collect some Bust material, mainly half dollars. Take Care Ben
I haven't gotten a definitive answer, but suspect the coin to be worth between $200 and $400 dollars because of the obvious striking error. There is a very active contingent in the hobby who collect these. I would recommend you pitting it up on Ebay with a VERY HIGH reserve price, oh $1000 for starters. This will not only give you an idea of what it's worth, but also put you in contact with those individuals who collect the series. Good Luck Ben
It appears to me, to be a Lamination separation from another coin that got struck into the Dime! If so, then the piece would have had to stuck to the Obverse Die and transferred to your Dime during the striking (Minting) process. If you could provide some more close-up pictures of the Obverse, then we might be able to make a better analysis! Also, we would need to know the condition of the Reverse before any possible value could be attached to the coin. Frank
Here is a pic of the reverse. I thank you all who have provided information and comments. I will provide hi res pics asap.
Here is another comment after posting he reverse. "If that were truely a cud I'd expect drastic strike weakness on the corresponding areas on the reverse. It doesn't look like the reverse is suffering from any abnormal strike weakness, only appropriate wear for the condition. My guess is it's something post mint but I've got no idea as to what that could be." I just don't know...
Bone & Frank, If that were truly a cud, then the corresponding areas on the Reverse would show a much stronger strike instead of weakness due to the increased thickness in these areas! The areas on the Reverse that do not correspond to the cud, are the areas that would show weakness. Like you, I have no idea to what it could be but only noted that it appeared to be a Lamination piece from another coin. It very well could be Post Mint and hopefully the pics promised by "CappedBustDimes" will tell the tale! Frank
So sources are pointing to a lamination error? I am (almost) certain this is NOT post mint. B/c the raised area has "die" cracks extending towards the rims. Thanks to all those who have posted their thoughts and opinions. I will hang on to her until someone comes along with more info or I come across another example. Thanks
IMO...it is not post mint because the 'stars' are struck on top..so I would have to agree with Huntsman
Frank, I hate to say this, but .... the reverse would be weaker in the areas that correspond to the CUD as the obverse would not have the portion of the die in place since it broke away, creating the raised area we want to call a CUD. Since there is no obverse die coming in contact with the planchet, the metal is higher , hence the "blob" of metal we call a CUD. That is the same metal that would fill the recesses when the reverse die comes into play. Since the obverse die is broken away, there is no resistance when the reverse die and the obverse die strike the coin. So where the blob is on the obverse, the strike is weaker on the reverse. Thanks, Bill
Cud Notice where the CUD is on the obverse. When the coin is turned over, there is a corresponding weakness to the strike on the reverse. This is a diagnostic of a cud. Thanks, Bill
Bill, As we all know, pictures can be very deceiving! What appeared to me as a cud (actually large lamination piece from another coin) struck into the Dime, is actually a series of large and small Lamination peels due to a severely flawed (defective) planchet. I finally got around to copying the file to my PC and after brightening up and increasing the size of the picture, I could then see that it is not a cud and actually is a series of large and small Lamination peels. I have added the edited picture below but it is still hard to really see since I could not blow it up for posting, so I added an additional picture with the Lamination peels as I can see them which may not be totally accurate. I have outlined the Lamination peels in a bluish/gray color with a red X indication the areas that are peeled away. Also, the Lamination peeling must have occurred Post Mint since the Reverse does not show any signs of a weak strike! Note: If you can use some Photo editing program to increase the brightness and size of the picture, then you should be able to see the Lamination peels. Frank