So what happens before and after the coin is minted? (and a GTG!)

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by Brett_in_Sacto, Dec 7, 2015.

  1. Brett_in_Sacto

    Brett_in_Sacto Well-Known Member

    So as some of you may know, I've been collecting Peace Dollars for a while, and learning a lot over the last few years. This year I embarked on building an NGC registry set (I'm 3 away from complete!) and I'm learning a lot about the mints and how the presses worked, and a lot of the details of why certain coins are the way they are.

    The question I'm unable to answer is this... Specifically for Peace Dollars, but I guess it would be similar for most coins minted around the same era.

    What happened before and after the press? I'm trying to understand a bit more about toning, "blast white" surfaces and what happens to these things as they age.

    We start with a blank planchet, do they get any sort of chemical or grease treatment? I have heard that HCI (Hydrocloric Acid) was used, but I'm not sure at what stage.

    After it's minted, do they go straight into a bag? Did they go to a reviewing table? A chemical bath?

    Ok, thanks for reading - and now the GTG!!!! I got this over the weekend at a local show. Actually I haven't got it in hand, I pick it up Wednesday night. But I've got the deal sealed and I'm STOKED! It's my Christmas present to me! (The pictures don't do it justice, but they will have to do until I get it in hand!)

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  3. eddiespin

    eddiespin Fast Eddie

    Cream of Tartar. It's all about that. :D

    Really, these are interesting, if not challenging, questions. I've wondered at them, myself. Let's see what we, as a collective, know. We're about to find out. Hold onto that hat. :)
     
  4. cpm9ball

    cpm9ball CANNOT RE-MEMBER

    @Brett_in_Sacto
    @eddiespin

    Most of your answers about the minting process can be answered in Roger Burdette's book, From Mine to Mint which explains in great detail the procedures used for the period 1833-1937.

    Brett, coincidentally, Roger is also the author of the Red Book of Peace Dollars.

    Chris
     
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  5. Mainebill

    Mainebill Bethany Danielle

    Clean. Tough to tell by the dark pics but I'm going 66
     
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  6. Brett_in_Sacto

    Brett_in_Sacto Well-Known Member

    Bless you sir.... Bless you! But not quite that good, although I may re-submit once it's in my hands.
     
  7. longshot

    longshot Enthusiast Supporter

    I was gonna say 66....
     
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  8. phankins11

    phankins11 Well-Known Member

  9. longnine009

    longnine009 Darwin has to eat too. Supporter

    I believe planchets are washed before annealing. Seems like the heat from the annealing ovens and the strike should be enough to burn off the residue?
     
  10. Treashunt

    Treashunt The Other Frank

  11. ldhair

    ldhair Clean Supporter

  12. Jdiablo30

    Jdiablo30 Well-Known Member

  13. Brett_in_Sacto

    Brett_in_Sacto Well-Known Member

    I think it might be a touch under graded, although there is the faintest bit of slight bag marks on the cheek that could hold it back by someone critical. But it's a spectacular coin regardless of grade.

    Then again, aren't all of our coins under graded?



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  14. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Simply put, coins begin to tone the instant they leave the press. And they will continue to tone throughout the course of their lives. Virtually any Peace dollar, any older coin actually, that you see today that is "blast white", is blast white because it has been dipped.

    Grease ? No. But yes the planchets are/were washed. Over the years the mint has experimented with many different washing solutions. On certain coins it is thought, not known but thought, that the washing solution could be responsible for spotting in some cases. But for the most part there are/were no ill effects as a result of the planchet washing.

    As for the acid, acid was one of the techniques used to impart surface finishes to the dies - only the dies. In the time of Peace dollars sand blasting was another technique used to impart surface finishes to the dies. This is why Peace dollars have a satiny look to them, a completely different kind of luster from most other coins. These techniques are also how the satin and matte Proofs came to be.

    Peace dollars, like almost all other coins, fell from the press directly into a large hopper. The hopper could hold thousands of coins, with each one falling on top of the others. This is where many of contact marks commonly found on coins originated. It is/was also at the hopper that random coins were picked up and inspected from time to time. If there was a problem the press would be shut down and any needed changes or adjustments made to the presses. This was the only inspection done.

    When the hopper got full another was put in it's place, and the full one moved to the bagging area. There mint employees would use scoop shovels to scoop the coins up and put them into canvas bags holding $1000 worth of coins. The number of coins was determined and verified on a scale by weight, the coins were not counted in other words. This is also where many of the contact marks commonly found on coins originated.

    Now many people scoff at the idea of the coins being put into bags with scoop shovels, nonetheless that is what was done. It is documented. In fact even as recently as 2011 (if memory serves) mint employees have been observed still using scoop shovels to bag the coins.

    Once minted, that was it for coins, nothing else was done to them, no chemical baths or anything. There is however an exception - modern $1 coins. Starting in 2000 with the Sackys, after minting the coins were covered with a special coating that was supposed to inhibit toning and reduce spotting that the alloy was/is infamous for.
     
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  15. Brett_in_Sacto

    Brett_in_Sacto Well-Known Member

    That was the answer I was expecting, and appreciate the confirmation. I did a bit more staring and oogling of the coin this morning.

    I'm 99% sure it's a VAM2 - Doubled Rays in the Tiara which is an R5 on the rarity scale.

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  16. phankins11

    phankins11 Well-Known Member

    :eek::oops::confused::yack::writer:

    So the coins that go into UNC mints sets...are they processed differently out of the press? I would think in order to minimize contact with the coins, so they look as good as possible, that looking through thousands to find the nicest onse wold take too much time, so there must be a different handling protocol for the coins going into mint sets?

    Doug,
    All of your information above is great to have, is this kind of stuff found in the book "From Mine to Mint", or is this kind of information somewhere else. If this is all in your head from learned experience I think you should write a book. This kind of information is very interesting to me.
     
  17. Conder101

    Conder101 Numismatist

    After annealing they are also washed and burnished to clean the oxides from the annealing off of them. They are dried and lightly oiled (to ease movement through he feeding equipment.) They are struck with dies that also have a thin film of oil on them. So all the coins coming from the press have an oil film on them.
     
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  18. iontyre

    iontyre Active Member

    As I recall the mint set coins are created on a different press altogether, with additional pressure, and yes are handled more carefully.
     
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  19. phankins11

    phankins11 Well-Known Member

    As far as I knew the uncirculated mint sets (not proofs which are) aren't minted in any different was as far as pressure or which presses.
     
  20. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    The coins in today's Mint Sets are processed a little differently. Yes they are struck on special presses with a higher striking pressure, and they are handled somewhat more carefully. But they still get dumped from the press into a hopper - thus the contact marks commonly found on them.

    But that process did not start until I think in the mid '90s. Before that the coins put in the Mint Sets were just pulled out of the same hopper of the coins being struck for circulation purposes.



    Personally I don't own the book, I just never got around to buying it. But I am told that much of the information I have relayed can be found in there. Me, yeah it's all in my head, I've own hundreds of coin books and have read many hundreds more over the years. And more articles about coins than I could even begin to count.

    As for me writing a book - lol - it's too much damn work ! Trust me I know. It took me 4 years to help one of my students write his book on Netherlands ducats. And that was just volume 1 ! There are 3, or more, volumes in the works. There has never before been a book like it written. I hope I live long enough to finish the damn thing :rolleyes:
     
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  21. phankins11

    phankins11 Well-Known Member

    Learn somethin' new every day. I didn't realize the process had changed. It explains the differences I see in these unc mint set coins going from the early 90's to the mid 90's.

    The coins definitely are nicer in these sets, but I just assumed that was because the packaging was better. Starting in the mid 90's the packaging reverse is much harder, not playable at all and hard enough that the corners can scratch you. The obverse packaging, while thinner than the reverse, is without a doubt thicker than the earlier stuff. I just always assumed that thicker pack was the reason for the nicer condition of the coins, that and they've not be tossed around as much as the older packages.

    I process a ton of these, its a sickness. I keep what I like and sell the rest of the P&D or PD&S pairs on ebay. As of this week I've cut apart probably 100 or so and have a ton more to do.

    I appreciate you sharing what you know...if only we could hook up a printer to your brain...wait...second thought, it would scare the shiz outta me if I did that with my brain...better leave that alone.:eek:
     
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