Hello guys, I have been collecting coins for a few years now but have not got the opportunity to explore double died error coins. I have some pretty good peices to be a beginner but would somebody care to look at this and tell me what they think. Thank you very much.
I don't see anything. There might be some slight MD there, but I cannot tell it is a glare or MD (machine doubling - no premium).
Either way it was good a experience and learned a little more about my coins. Plus having for three years and putting it unger a loop for the first time and seeing that gave me that rush of finding TREASRRE. I won't quit surching and building. Thanks a lot guys for you information and time. Sincerely, Stan Perry
I feel the same way Kentucky! Thanks for the extra info. To help with varieties, types, and errors I believe the best book I have looked at would be cherry picking for coin collections. unless you have a better suggestion on a beginner / amateur coin book?
Double dies are maybe one of the hardest to spot because there are a lot of different things that make it look as if it were a double die. sorry for posting this in your post but I think it would be interesting to you now that you are looking for doubles. here is one I don't really understand is hubbing Double Die Classification: Class I: Die being re-hubbed is rotated near the center of the die from the position it was in during the original Hubbing. Class II: Design features on the Die/Hub become distorted or miss-shaped during the annealing/tempering process causing the images to no longer align properly when being re-hubbed. Class III: Happens when working hubs with different designs features are used to Hub a Die. Class IV: Happens when a Die is moved off center in the Hubbing Press from the position it was in during the initial Hubbing. Class V: Happens when a Die is pivoted around a point near the rim during the rehubbing process. Class VI: Happens when a Hub is overused and the design features become thickened or flattened creating thick design features on the Working Dies. Class VII: Happens when a Die being Hubbed is impressed with a normal hub and a then re-hubbed using a hub that has had its features changed or removed Class VIII: Happens when the top of a Die being Hubbed is not parallel to that of the Hub. information provided by coinauctionshelp.com a lot of other type of doubling
Teachmind, I would rather no more than no less.at the last you stated that there is a lot more doubling types and at first glance I thought you gave me all the different types. Haha Ilearned a lot from just a few post. Thanks. I'll anymore neat stuff I find here in NorthAlabama.there seems to be an abundance of neat things here
Should have seen all the old bottles I found with my old job. Geological engineering company we would find a lot of 1920-1960 glass bottles from that time coolool stuff...
@teachmind - One thing that folks simply do NOT take into consideration is the fact that since the US Mint is dealing with metals, there is a lot of "forgiveness built into the machines themselves to prevent catastrophic damage to the machines. This "forgiveness" allows a certain amount of rotation, pivot rotation, misalignment, etc. It's up to the technician operating the equipment to determine whether or not a good hubbing has occurred. Additionally, just like when a die is used too much oin production and begin to show signs of wear, a hub (used to create the die) can suffer from the same metallic fatigue.
you should read the bottom about incuse lettering as well. this will show you comparison photos. http://www.doubleddie.com/144822.html
Yep, i keep the bottles and coins but it is more fun to trade/switch out with other hobbies...haha View attachment 426349 View attachment 426350
