new collectors or collectors with small budgets.

get the greysheet before you buy on ebay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you dont check the greysheet, stay off of ebay. If you dont have the greysheet, buy coins at a show!!! no greysheet and no local show, dont buy coins!!!!!!!!!!

 

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if you're buying coins, dont leave home without it.

 

How about older collectors with a small budget.

 

greysheet and the slabbing company grades

If the greysheet doesnt list all the middle grades (ms 61; ms62) why are the slabbers still giving middle grades. I had some nice semi-key date morgans slabbed by pcgs as ms62 that I sold today. Few years ago, I sold a nice MS61. The dealers always pay prices closer to the lower greysheet grade!!! They never pay close to the higher greysheet grade, on the middle-graded coins. I like 1880-O morgans. Big jump from ms60 to ms63 grey sheet prices. Seems like MS61s and MS62 is a waste of time and money!!!! MS61 and MS62 will always get the MS60 greysheet price!!!

 

The simple answer is that graders base their opinions on their company's standards, and there is no TPG with a standard specifying "If the greysheet doesn't list a grade, don't use it."

A better question would be "If the TPGs assign a grade, why doesn't the greysheet list prices for it?" That too has a simple answer. The editors of the greysheet have decided that adding all the unlisted grades would cost them so much that they would have to raise their prices, and not enough of their subscribers would' consider the extra information worth the extra price.

Remember, the TPGs and the greysheet publisher are all in business to make money.

 

Please show me where in the greysheet I can find price information for the die varieties of early or middle date large cents, or 18th century Conder tokens. I haven't used a greysheet in over 15 years. The greysheet is great for buying widgets, but of very limited use when you become a little more specialized.

 

I dont know if that answers the question, satooko. maybe it does. The dealers are in business to make money. is that the answer why they pay close to the lower grade? If the hobby/industry did it mathematically, an 1880-o in ms61 would be around $130; An MS-62 would be around $225. But I guess that makes too much sense. If I buy an MS-62 morgan 1880-o, the dealers would rather pay close to the MS-60 price of $50!!!!!!!! It doesnt seem rational!!! It doesnt seem legit!!!!!!!!!! A slab from NGC or PCGS in an MS61 or MS62 is a waste of time and money. The dealers dont want to pay you for it!!!!!!! And the dealer I sold my morgans to, I can NOT say he screwed me. HE gives me fair prices based on greysheet. PLUS two years ago I walked out the show with $200 he gave me for a prooflike 1880-o morgan, and it was a problem coin!! It had a weird black stain on liberty's cheek. He said it looked like it passed thru some sort of counting machine. I forget exactly what he told me. But it had a prooflike surface, and he gave me $200!!!!! so my go-to dealer to sell coins to, gives me fair deals.

 

The way I see it, you don't have to sell your ms 61/62 to a dealer if the price isn't good enough. try ebay. If you can't find a way to sell an ms 62/63 for the money you want, I would stick to the published grades, ms 60 , 64 ect.

 

This is simply silly for several reasons:

#1 Good luck finding any desireable coin on eBay for even close to ask much less bid.
#2 Same as #1 except at shows.
#3 Most collectors on a budget won't be buying coins that are on the greysheet.
#4 The coins you should be focused on are those that sell for more than greysheet anyway -- greysheet is for average coins, most collectors want above average coins.

The better source of pricing info is past Ebay and Heritage auctions -- purchasing near greysheet is a pipe dream for most collectors...Mike

 

okay: mike, thats one opinion. Same coin I already mentioned: 1880-o in MS-62: Question: Is it a more desirable coin? ...Commentary: The dealer said he thinks the 1880-o coins I sold to him are going to sit for a while. you tell me if 1880-o is an average coin that I should take whatever I can get for it. ...as for greysheet being for average coins, greysheet shows plenty of expensive stuff. I cant see where the average collector has the money for the so-called desireable coins. Coin collecting is not the hobby of only doctors and lawyers. First answer the question; then follow up with any response on the commentary.

 

if you dont like thr price offered ... you can always walk away cant you ???

 

I think what Mike is saying is that there can be 3 coins all graded MS62 but none of them are the same.....one is a "low end" MS62...the other is a solid 62 and the last one is a high end 62 that might get the upgrade to 63. The Gray Sheet lists the values for the low ends and solids...whereas collectors most of the time are hunting the high end, nicer coins. It has nothing to do with the date or whatever....at least that is my 2 cents.
When I set up at a show or when I'm buying alot of coins I like and use the Gray Sheet---and when I go to a show I like the Gray Sheet---but when I'm just buying here and there I use either my head to keep my numbers that I need or I use Heritage, etc. I can pretty much keep up with the way the market is going on the coins I'm hunting for in my head--when you check ebay, Heritage, Teletrade, Etc, Etc, everyday you kindof get the values stuck in your head...then when you are at the show or dealers shop you can pretty much remember what kindof price you should be paying.
But then.....if I want the coin....and if I have the money...then sometimes I'm willing to overpay just to get that coin.

Speedy

 

speedy, do you sometimes try to offer below greysheet price? ....and with regard to mikes comments, is the 1880-o in ms-62 considered a common? or is it something special?

 

Yep---in fact, most dealers sell at BID and buy at about 15% less than BID. For HOT items like maybe a 1909-S VDB you might have to offer ASK and maybe even alittle more...but for other things such as Mint Sets you might offer less. I've found that at least around here not many people collect Mint Sets....so if you buy them you pretty much have them for along time....so when buying Mint Sets I try to get them cheaper than BID.
I'm not much of a Morgan Dollar collector so I can't answer your question and be 100% sure. But I took a look at the POP reports at NGC, and see that they have graded over 1400 MS62. Most of the time on Morgan Dollars the ones that will bring the money are:
CC mint dollars
1895--any mint mint
and coins that grade MS65+....
Also--you really have to take a look at each date...and not only dates but mintmarks....
Take a 1881-S dollar....in MS65 it isn't worth alot...because that date and mintmark is KNOWN for a strong strike....the detail is always really great....but take an 1901-O dollar and if you got it graded MS65 you might really have something.....becuase most O mint mark dollars have a week strike...the detail isn't that good on the O mints and so sometimes they grade lower.

Speedy

 

??? where do you get the greysheet??? I live in washington,the state

 

the argument of "if you dont like the price, sell it somewhere else,' is bogus, cause when you need money, you need money. when you need money, time and gas money cant be wasted. Its always good to have a dealer at the show you trust, so you dont look like some f'ing idiot going delaer to dealer with the same handful of stuff like a beggar looking for the best handout. I estimated at PCGS prices I had $500 of stuff. I estimate I paid around $400. I got $300. Ii give the guy credit: he has a shop; open six days a week. he pays electirc and rent. His shop does not do a lot of business. Whereas at the show, I might be dealing with some other bozos who store their display cases in the garage coins and all, until the next show. But Coins are better than jewelry or watches. I like antique watches, but with watches, the antique dealers screw you over, usually they buy at 30 percernt. Coins you get anywhere from 70 to 85 percent.

 

Mint sets

Plain mint sets pricing is going up, being dragged along by the PROOF sets, but nowhere as fast as the PROOF sets. Some of the plain sets are pricey due to rarity.

 

I agree. Most of the time you should know what you want and what you should pay ahead of time. The gray sheet is just another tool in the toolbelt.

 

Don't knock Ebay on coins. I have found a lot of very nice coins on ebay. As for the Grey sheet, it's for investors, and people that buy & sell. I like the red Book.